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Canine Behavior Counseling, LLC with Judy Moore

Judy Moore has a new Website!

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                          Judy Moore Owner of Canine Behavior Counseling, LLC 

     

Who should train your dog?

5 month Mastiff with
excellent Emotional Control!

Family and friends are all "dog experts" and happy to advise you on how to stop unwanted jumping, mouthing and other unwanted behaviors.  What they neglect to tell you is that their own dog, won't come when called, barks when guests come to the door and has no emotional control. I have seen a dog "expert" reach for his dog at a training activity and his own dog moved away and coward.

Sadly, harsh training methods that are "too harsh for the dogs temperament" can create a dog that is afraid of strangers. Fear and stress associated with humans is a great recipe for Stranger Aggression as the pup matures.  Ever wonder why adolescent dogs all of a sudden begin to growl or bite?

Keep in mind that dogs are emotional beings who will form a strong bond with the person who feeds and trains them.  Shouldn't that person be you!  Here are some helpful tips to set you and your pup up for success!

Always:

• Give your dog feedback to shape good habits. Example: when hand feeding a treat, if you feel teeth pull the treat away, do not reward a harsh mouth.  Repeat  by offering the treat until your pup only touches the treat or licks, then release and repeat many many times.

Does your dog have a soft mouth? 

• Reward good behavior with something the dog finds rewarding.
• Use your dogs meal to practice behaviors you want. This also teaches a soft mouth.
• Always reward an alternative behavior to the unwanted behavior.
• Have your dog do a calm behavior before you reward with affection, food or play.
• Do change your pitch when training your dog.
• Do use a marker if you want to bridge the communication between dog and human, such as a clicker or verbal "yes".
• Do play tug, which teaches a soft mouth. Start with a calm dog, then tug, drop it, sit, repeat. All our dogs learn this pattern in Star Puppy Class!
• Learn new theories and behavioral techniques from the best in the business, including Dr. Ian Dunbar, Karen Pryor, Patricia McConnell, Sue Sternberg, Suzanne Clothier, Terry Ryan, Bob Bailey, Pia Sylvani, Victoria Stillwell, Turid Rugaas, or from an APDT Certified Trainer.

Avoid:

• Using your hand in a negative manner, such as holding mouth closed, sticking fingers down her throat, and certainly you should never strike your dog! Unless, of course, you want your dog to associate "hands" as something to fear!
• Avoid holding your dog down, or making him submit, as this can have very negative consequences.  If your dog cannot trust you, then he will not trust your friends and you will see a hyper, over-the-top appeasement greeting, growly behavior, or submissive peeing develop.
• Creating pain or fear in the process of giving feedback.
• Rewarding your dog if he jumps then sits, unless you always want him to jump before he sits.
• Looking, touching or even yelling at a dog for barking out the window, as this attention is rewarding to most dogs, hence they will do it more!
• Taking advice from friends and uncertified Dog Trainers who want to use a pinch or shock collar.

Sophie comes when called because it
always predicts good things!

So, I ask you again: Who should help you train your dog?  Raising a Dog and people friendly dog takes lots of patience and lots of feedback using good timing and rewards that the dog wants to work for.  Rewarding behaviors using a Positive approach is the most educated and effective way to train your dog, child or even your spouse:)  So, please thank your well meaning family and friends, but if you want your dog to come when called 100 % of the time, then use a positive approach and your dog will enjoy coming because it makes him "feel" good, not because he has to avoid a painful shock or other unpleasant consequence.

5 Body Postures, A Dog is Asking For Space

If humans better understood dogs body language then we would have less dogs resorting to a bite when they feel stressed or threatened.  We see several cues that this scared boy does not want to be touched.  Signals that are asking for distance are often very subtle.

Level 1 distance Cues:
1. Dogs body is leaning away from the approaching hand.
2. Dogs paw is raised in a submissive manner.
3. Head is moving away asking for increased distance.
4. Eyes are avoiding the stranger
5. Mouth is closed, rather than open and relaxed.

Dogs often ask for distance in the only way they know how, but if the scary hand keeps coming, your dog may resort to a level 2 distance cue like a Growl, lip curl or show of teeth with a rigid body.  I HOPE your dog growls rather than bites. Hence, do not punish the growl as it is an effective distance cue.  When the dog is punished for growling, but is still afraid of that hand coming as it predicts pain, he may bite to protect himself.  

Have you heard of someone who was bitten by a dog in the face while they were attempting to pet him or rub his belly?  It is probable the dog used some distance cues before he resorted to a bite. Unfortunately, it is likely the human did not understand the signals and continued forward until the dog felt so threatened he did not have time to use a more moderate level one or level two response.

Dogs that are fearful or have been threatened by a previous human will be on guard and defensive.  Canine behaviors asking for distance are far better than an attack with a bite, so please do not punish them. Rather, simply remove the approaching stimuli. Can you teach a dog a level 1 distance cue like a look away? Absolutely, but it takes time and patience -- and it is well worth the effort!

Fight or Flight?

On a recent trip, I found myself in a nice hotel lobby visiting friends.  I decided it was time for

It is easier to understand
human intentions.

"goodbyes" so I headed for the elevator.  When the door opened, there were three rather imposing-looking men standing along the back wall.  I froze for a second!  Do I get in and turn my back to them?  Do I step in and continue to face them? Do I walk away as if I forgot something?

Depending on our past life experiences we may all feel differently about being in this situation.  Many of you might say "Wow, you are overly sensitive" or "I would flee, for sure!"

At only 5'1" I often feel vulnerable when alone, but knowing I was in a nice hotel, I chose to step into the elevator, turn slightly sideways and push the appropriate button.  As the doors closed I felt an intense hot flash rush over my entire body. Feeling trapped with no flight path, I was over come with fear.  I decided I would fight if needed and looked into the nearest mans face and said "Hi." He smiled and nodded his head. I looked at the young man in the middle and he nodded before I could speak and looked quickly away at the ground. I looked straight at the third man and his head was resting on the back wall with his eyes closed.  With this information, I did not feel as threatened and was able to relax just a bit, although I was still on guard as the elevator took FOREVER to get to the 10th floor.  I waited until the door began to open and then quickly stepped out of the door in a sideways movement and looked behind me to see if anyone would follow. Thankfully the doors closed and I was free to hustle to my room. The feeling of being safe was oh so good!

Fight or Flight, also called the acute stress response are terms ethologist's and behavioral
psychologist use to describe the behavior of numerous species -- including humans.  If a stimulus is perceived as a threat, a more intense and prolonged discharge of locus ceruleus activates the sympathetic division of the nervous system. For a thorough understanding on how the body reacts, visit:  (Thase & Howland, 1995)

Am I clear? says the golden.  Good, I don't want to bite you.

We think of prey animals such as the horse, deer and other animals with wide set eyes to use flight as their way of staying safe.  Predators such as wolves,  cats & dogs will often choose flight if given the opportunity.

However, if a valued resource is worth fighting for, or if a predator is trapped and prevented from flight, then it will likely use a fight response to keep himself safe.

Back off, I am in fight mode as there is no flight accessible

Fight-or-flight responses are as normal in our canine friends as in our human friends.  When you see a dog use a fight response such as a growl with a specific stimulus, consider if the dog has a good reason to do so.  Is the dog trapped?  Is this dog given a chance to use flight?  Could this dog have good reason to not trust a particular stimuli?

I suggest if you have a dog that is using a fight behavior, consider first the dogs history.  Assess the situations, observe the dogs entire body, seek to understand before you consider how to proceed.  Do not immediately correct or punish, as this dog may have good reason to growl or snap. The dog may simply be afraid.  Help me prevent dogs from being punished for choosing fight when they are left with no other option. Dogs that have been punished for simply being afraid, are much harder to counter-condition later.