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                          Judy Moore Owner of Canine Behavior Counseling, LLC 

     

A growl is better than a bite!

I am often called to a home where a dog has nipped or bitten a child.  I realize many think that a dog should NEVER use his teeth to resolve conflict with a human, and I agree in a perfect world, humans should NEVER hit a dog with their hand to resolve conflict either.

When there is a language barrier between two species, communication is often misunderstood and

Socializing pups with calm children is essential.

conflict can easily follow.  A three year old running at a dog with an object in his hand can be scary. How many times does your dog have to get up and move away to keep himself out of trouble before someone slows down the noisy moving child?

If by noon, the dog has looked away three times, offered a few tongue flicks, turned his head away five times and gotten up from his resting place four times to avoid conflict with the little tornado, then on the twelth time he may give a growl.  I can not tell you how tolerant a dog should be, but I can tell you that they all have a threshold or a breaking point just like we humans do.  I hope you recognize the growl as a low level warning that your dog is asking for space, and please do NOT punish the warning growl.  In the future, I guarantee you would prefer your dog growl as a distance cue rather than use his teeth!

What other pet animal is so tolerant of children?  Bunnies will squeek a warning and nip, cats will hiss and claw out, hamsters have also learned that nipping gets them safely back in their cage.

I like this child, she is not moving and she feeds me!

I am happy to report that many moms have asked me to speak to their children as a way to educate the child on how the dog is "feeling" when they are near.  While some dogs enjoy having kids around, clearly others do not. Our responsibility is to step in and help our dogs feel safe so they do not have to resolve the conflict alone.

If you live or work with children, it is especially helpful for you to know your dogs signals that he or she may be feeling worried. That way you can intervene so that your dog never has to growl or nip, or reach his or her threshold point.

I am certain that the dogs in the above photo, who are being fed by the young girl in the stroller, are feeling pretty good being fed by a child that is not running around.  However, if she were to get out of the stroller and run at these dogs, they would not feel the same way and one of them would need to be removed to keep him from hitting his threshold.  With lots of positive associations and yummy treats, both these dogs can learn to enjoy children running around them.

So please, if you observe a dog feeling worried about a child moving nearby, remove either the child or the dog so that the dog is feeling safe and the dog does not get into trouble.  An ounce of knowledge can go along way to helping both dogs and children grow up together in a positive way.

Once a guarder, always a guarder?

Go away!

Zeke, my foster dachshund, was surrendered because he continually fought with another dog in his home.  This was particularly sad because he was given up by the family who adopted him as a pup. It was the only home Zeke was familiar with.  On the other hand, if Zeke was fighting with another dog in the home, did he feel safe in that home?  Why did he constantly want on his owners lap?  Was he guarding her, or was it that he felt safest when near her?  Why did he guard his crate?  Again, was it his or was it that he felt safe there? What made this behavior rewarding to Zeke?

I am pleased to inform you that after less than 3 weeks, Zeke has developed a trusting relationship with my three dogs.  Why is that important?  Because many dogs that guard are also fearful and defensive.  Once I reduced his fear, he now moves through the house with bones and toys in each room, and he no longer chases my dogs away from them or even gives them the "look".  They have walked past toys and bones so many times (and there are plenty to go around!), so guarding is not rewarding anymore.

I am warning you!

That does not mean he may not fall into old habits in his new home, but it does mean that I personally believe Zeke's underlying habitual guarding behavior stems from very poor social skills with both people and dogs.  Developing a trusting relationship with dogs in the home, and devaluing the objects he found high value, have been a successful plan for Zeke.

When Zeke, the Dachshund, would show his teeth at my dogs to gain access to more food I was holding, I walked him away and gave his share to my dogs.  I waited about 2 minutes and repeated this exercise of feeding everyone some chicken.  When Zeke focused on me and ignored my dogs, showing no distance cues at them, I rewarded him with chicken. Hence, he learned good social skills always gets rewarded in my home.

Canine Body Language Seminar

Presented by

Judy Moore ACDBC

Associate Certified Dog Behavior Consultant

When:    Saturday, January 4, 2014

Where:   Poetic Gold Farm 

              7 Trillium Lane, Falmouth, ME 

Time:    10am- noon

Fees:    Dogs attending for evaluation $75

            Attendees for audit $25

  

who is the most worried here?

I'll will review how canines communicate with each other and how they try to communicate with us. You will learn to identify signs of canine stress and fear which can assist you in preventing unwanted behaviors such as a snap or bite.  Many dogs offer distance cues, however we as humans miss them; therefore many dogs resort to a level 3 bite because no one respected the level 1 or 2 distance cue.

 If you work with, own, or live with a dog who exhibits shy or skittish behavior, you will benefit from a basic understanding of how they "speak" to us with body language. 

Live Demo dogs and Q&A discussion included!

For more information or to attend contact Judy at Judyamoore@mac.com

Maine's frist Match!

Dog Training Seminar to Benefit

Pets for Vets

Topic: Object and Food Guarding

Speaker/Evaluator

Judy Moore, ACDBC, CPDT-KA of

Canine Behavior Counseling, LLC

held at

PoeticGold Farm, 7 Trillium Lane, Falmouth ME

Home at last!

Saturday, December 14, 2013 from 10am-noon

Do you own, foster, or work with dogs that growl when you approach them while eating or when on your bed, or when being held? This seminar will address techniques to devalue items your dog thinks are high value using a Positive Approach.

Registration options:

1. A limited number of spaces are available to attend with your dog and have him/her evaluated at the seminar the fee is $75.

2. To attend the seminar without your dog but with questions about your dogs behavior and the opportunity to learn the techniques through observation the fee is $25.

For more information or to attend email Judy at judyamoore@mac.com

20% of the proceeds will go to support the Pets for Vets Program

http://pets-for-vets.com/category/northeast/portlandme/

Puppies First Impressions

When you bring your puppy home, you want to raise him or her to be the best Family Dog possible.  We all have good intentions when raising a puppy, however there are some mis-guided and uneducated people who will tell you that you need to dominate your dog so they respect you.  This is not only poor advice, once it is done, you may not be able to take it back.

I am bonding these small pups to
human contact.  

Imprinting is life long and can not be overcome; Dr. Konrad Lorenz first studied imprinting in birds, primarily geese in 1935, so this concept is not new.  What he found was that different species of animals have an early/critical period in their learning development which cannot be reversed.

Helping puppies associate hands as being gentle is
crucial for a soft mouth

In addition, Evolutionary Biologist Kathryn Lord at the University of Massachusetts Amerst suggests that different behaviors are related to the animal's earliest sensory experiences during the critical period of socialization.  This critical period in dogs is from 4 weeks to about 8 weeks; during this critical time, puppies begin walking and exploring without fear and will remain comfortable throughout their lives with environmental stimuli they encounter during this time with low levels of fear.  But as the period ends at 8 to 10 weeks, fear will increase and after the socialization window closes, new sights, sounds and smells will elicit a fear response.  

Imprinting establishes an individual animals preference for a certain species.  Hence, if a puppy in its later stages of his critical period is subjected to a traumatic event such as rough handling by its breeder, vet, or trainer, it may result in a defensive attack or behavior pattern when the animal is touched in a certain way -- even a year or more later in the dogs life.

Common to trainers is the puppy that is fine with Dad, but bites hard at mom or the children in the home.  This scenario is all too common when Dad has used his hands to reprimand the pup in a forceful way for biting (which is a normal way for a pup to interact).  While the pup does obviously require feedback on what to sink his teeth into, too often Dad holds the pups mouth shut, pushes his lip onto a tooth, scruffs the pup or holds him down.  All of these actions will make this puppy bite others in the family more often and with greater force.  Another negative side effect is the 10 month old puppy who cannot sit still for petting.  He is too nervous and worried to just sit, so he wiggles and wiggles his body in an "over the top" appeasement behavior pattern, all the while turing his butt towards the person and lowers his head to ward off the scary behavior which he had to endure as a young pup.

Now that you know how important First Impressions are to your puppy, always be a Positive influence in your puppies life.  Not only for the well being of your puppy, but for those who may be learning from your example also.

Behavior is Shaped by the Environment

I try not to sound like a broken record, but I do continually hit home the fact that the environment is training your dog.  Specifically, the environment is shaping your dogs behavior in small successes each day, each minute.

Why is this important?  If your puppy barks frequently to get your older dog to interact with it, then this pup is learning to be rude and bark loudly in order to gain the attention it desires.  What if your puppy is jumping on you to get attention then quickly sitting for the reward?  You pup will learn that jumping gets a) your attention, and b) some form of a yummy treat.

What if your adolescent dog is repeatedly getting into scuffles at the local dog park or in day care?  Your dog is learning the tools to be successful, lunging quicker, faster, higher can be very rewarding.  Dogs, simply stated, do what works for them.

Think about how other forms of life are shaped by the environment they live in, and often shape that environment in return. Do the habits of your roommate, co-worker or spouse effect your behavior?  Do you ever avoid, engage, or seek out a particular human just because it meets your needs?  Dogs do the same!

The photo below shows a small Dachshund mix thinking about stealing some breakfast! However, the Golden uses what works for her to prevent sharing.  

This Golden has learned that a hard eyed stare will make the smaller Dachshund mix turn and move away from her food.

If the hard eye stare works, then the Golden no longer needs to attack to get her message across.  Dogs, again, do what works for them.

In this photo to the right the dogs are learning that they get rewarded when they offer calm behavior such as a down position.  Very quickly the dogs learn that when they are lying down the cookies begin to drop from the sky!  We then ask the dogs to move to a new spot and they again quickly offer a down knowing their behavior predicts good things!

Again, habits are formed by practicing them daily and by enjoying the rewards they offer.  So if you see your dog forming good habits like sitting to go out or sitting for affection, then great!  But if your pup is over mouthy and you find yourself rewarding with play, then think about how you or your environment is shaping your dogs behavior on a daily basis. Make the necessary changes to set your pup up for good habits that will be enjoyed and appreciated!

Changing Your Dogs Emotional Response

Simply wanting your dog to respond differently to sights and sounds is not enough.  In the last Blog, I talked about having a plan, going slow and being in a good emotional place yourself.

Please keep in mind, when your dog becomes afraid or anxious his emotional state is responding to one or more triggers in the environment, which will cause a physical response.  The better you can read your dogs body language the more success you will have in desensitizing him to his triggers.  What do I mean:  desensitization is defined as the diminished emotional responsiveness to a negative or aversive stimulus after repeated exposure to it. It also occurs when an emotional response is repeatedly evoked in situations in which the action tendency that is associated with the emotion proves irrelevant or unnecessary. Desensitization is a process primarily used to assist individuals unlearn phobias and anxieties. 
source: Wikipekia.org

For example, you may see your dog respond by barking and lunging at a trigger, however before this, look for signs of stiffness, body freeze, standing tall on toes, closed mouth with a hard stare, ear twitching, sniffing high in the air, whining, pacing or beginning to bark.  These are also, your dogs physical responses to his unsettled emotional state.  I believe with training you will get better at responding more quickly and thoughtfully to your dogs change in body language.

Now think simple, maybe even fun!

Two games you can use to desensitize your dog to a trigger:

1. Find it:  In this video you will see a slightly reactive Miniature Pincher playing a fun hunting game in the grass we call "find it", while a boy moves slowly in the distance.  To teach your dog to play find it, simply take a few pieces of your dogs kibble or treats, show him the food, say "find it" and toss the food near you on the floor.  Repeat in the quiet of your home where there are no distractions.  This Miniature Pincher knew how to play this game several weeks before we added the trigger of a child talking and moving about in the distance.

How do you measure success?  Notice the dog alerts to the child and the handler quickly continues the game.  The dog does not go over threshold with any barking or lunging. 

2. Fetch:  Many dogs love to play fetch with their owners and this game is often begun in the home or the dogs own back yard and is rewarded by lots of enthusiasm from the handler.  Taking this fun game and playing it with your dog at a distance from a trigger can be a great way to desensitize.

In this photo you see a yellow lab in the back ground playing a fun game of fetch with his owner while two other adolescent dogs are playing nearby.  While the proximity is quite close, this yellow lab has had a great deal of training and focus work.  Initially, you would begin at a distance from the trigger and be aware of your dogs body language so you can keep him engaged in the game as soon as he alerts to the trigger but before he actually reacts.

I hope this blog gives you some motivation to change your dogs behavior and not just shock it. I know there are many dog trainers who will happily take your money to stop unwanted behavior, however adding punishment to a stressed out dog is simply shattering his nervous system and breaking any relationship you thought you may have had with him.

Changing Behavior

When changing your dogs behavior or habits it is best to go slow and keep it simple.  Changing habits takes time and while the process may seem overwhelming at times, remember small successes are a big deal!

Steps to changing your dogs behavior: 

1. Make a plan, put it in writing, including specific detailed goals

2. Identify your dogs triggers and the alternative behavior you desire

3. Focus on asking your dog to do the alternative behavior or habit every single time the trigger happens at a distance, for several weeks.

4. Reward your dog generously for offering the alternative behavior

several reactive dogs changing their behavior

• Reward even if the dog attempts the behavior.
• Reward even if the dog takes one step or turns his head to consider the option of complying.
• Avoid only rewarding when the dog completes the new behavior, but do reward the dog for even the slightest attempt of any new behavior.  This is called a "choice point",  it is to your advantage to reward any attempt in making the correct choice!  
• Avoid this mistake:  if your dog is afraid of the mail carrier, then begin with all adults but avoid the mail carrier for now.  When your expectations are not real, you will be frustrated. Setting your dog up for success is best done when the triggers are very low and far away, this is a good plan for getting an alternative behavior started.
• Even if the dog does it for one second!  When you begin to reward slight offerings of new behavior, your dog will more likely want to continue to play this new game!

Take it slow, breathe,  and relax as your dog is depending on you!  Setting your dog up for success also implies training when YOU are in a calm mental state.  If it helps, think of the many things your dog does right and build one small behavior at a time!

Next, I will offer specific games to play in specific locations to help you progress.

How Best to Feed Your New Pup

Many people are conditioned to put dog food in a bowl, ask for a sit and put the bowl down, end of story.  But we know that dogs learn through repetition just like humans do, so why not use feeding to teach an automatic behavior?

I believe we can truly prevent many unwanted behaviors by simply playing a daily game with our dogs during meal time.  Let's say you have a puppy who is a jumper or a dog with emotional control issues, a high energy pup, or a boxer that just can's stop climbing on you or a big rescue dog who is a bit reactive.  Having our dogs practice a bit more emotional control is a good thing, right!

Ok, let's begin, prepare your dogs meal as always and rather than asking him for a sit, take the bowl with you and go sit in a chair.  Think of a behavior you would like from your dog, maybe eye contact or a simple sit.  Wait for your dog to do this behavior and toss him some food over his head.  When he returns after eating, wait for the same behavior and repeat, repeat until his bowl is gone.  Do this once daily for several days. The first behavior you choose will most likely be the behavior he will offer you each day and all day long when he wants something from you.

I rewarded Puff for sitting politely in puppy socialization
so he kept coming back and sitting in front of me, each time
waiting longer and longer for the reward.

For example, you are rewarding the sit, your dog will begin to offer this behavior to have access to many things all day long.  Let's call this behavior the "automatic" behavior because your dog will automatically begin to offer this behavior when he wants his crate opened, or to go outside, to jump out of the car, to run into the dog park, or to have his leash put on, get his meal, receive petting from anyone, you to throw the toy, anything your dog wants in life will be asked with this automatic behavior.  With each pause you are lowering your dogs arousal and helping him think.  This game of rewarding your dog for a specific behavior and tossing food away and having him return to you and ask again is so easy and fun, even your kids can play!

To keep this behavior strong, I recommend you reward it often even when your dog offers it when you haven't asked!  Scratching, petting, massaging are all easy ways of rewarding a polite request.  Should you ask for the behavior?  Nope,  just let it happen, and reward it.  No behavior, no reward.  Your dog will be thinking rather than always needing to be told what to do.  Helping your dog learn to ask nicely to receive wanted resources will shape your dogs behavior into a calm, thinking dog, rather than a pushy reactive dog you will want to keep for a lifetime!

Show Me

While many of us this week have been  hugging  and  holding our children and grand children tighter as a result of the horrible shootings in Newtown CT., many of us have also sought to hold and love our pets.  Our desire to keep all those we love feeling safer has increased dramatically in light of the recent tragedy among the young and innocent.

stiff response to touch

Yet, when I reach to comfort my new 6 year old foster dog he growls and moves away from me. My desire to befriend and offer safety to this frightened dog is way more than he can handle at this point.  The more I try, the more he withdraws.

A new approach is clearly needed to earn the trust of with this little guy, so based on the many insights shared by Karen Pryer, I will play a series of "show me" games.  This is a game many new horse owners play when they buy or ride a new horse, if I do this what will you do?  Applying pressure with your hand or leg on different parts of a horse should be met with a behavior from the animal, hence, the relationship begins.

Knowing that petting this dog's back, would earn a "growl" verbal response as well as a stiffening of his body, I tried the back of my hand on his side for about 4 seconds then stopped.  What I got this time was a look in my direction and a bit of a lean into my hand.  So I continued to rub his side with the back of my hand and stop, allowing him to walk away or ask for more. This went on for 10 minutes at which point I needed to move myself as my back was ailing me.  I should also mention that in this time, I noticed his eyes soften, his ears seemed floppy, his breathing slowed, and he licked his lips multiple times and at one point laid his head on my leg.  I was thrilled!  I slowly got up and moved away, happily knowing he was wanting more of this friendship to continue. 

With so much uncertainty in our world, it is reassuring to give comfort and safety to an uncertain or defensive person or pet, even if for just a brief time.  Knowing when to reach out and when to just be present is a fine line, one that is always changing but certainly always rewarding.

Canine Body Language Seminar

Mia greeting me with her back for safety.

Thank you to everyone who attended our Canine Body Language Seminar held at Poetic Gold Farm in Falmouth this past Sunday!  I believe, from all the positive feedback I have received, we accomplished our goal of helping everyone see that our dogs really do speak with their body movements.  When we take time to observe our dogs stance, their weight distribution, what their ears, eyes, tail, mouth, brows and tongue,  are doing as well as their over all body firmness, we can learn a great deal about our dogs emotional state.  With just a bit of practice we can understand what our dog is feeling given the situation they are in and how to help them if they are fearful or stressed.  As you can see in the above photo, Mia was not comfortable greeting me for the first time facing me, instead, each time turned and gave me her back, with ears down and back, tongue flicking up and out.  She clearly has a bit of hesitation when greeting someone new, but she did quickly warm up and roll on the ground in a relaxed goofy manner.

We certainly all agreed that when it comes to a dog greeting a strange person or new dog, the dog always has an opinion.  Rather than asking "can our dogs meet", we should all be asking "do our dog's want to meet" the strange dog or person.

Pablo is fearful of people and has begun to ground sniff.

Knowing how your dog is feeling in different situations will help you set him up for success.  Note in this photo, Pablo is sniffing the ground, he is uncomfortable with all the humans looking at him and has resorted to ground sniffing as it is comforting to him.  Knowing he was stressed I had my daughter play a game of "find it",  he happily ate the treats and kept a safe distance from the observers.

Bella is avoiding Pablo by sniffing in the grass.

As you can see from this photo taken a few weeks earlier, these two dogs having just met are not comfortable entering each other's space and therefore are demonstrating some avoidance.  Note Bella sniffing the grass and Pablo has a high tail and fairly stiff gate. This is the dogs way of keeping themselves safe, as neither dog invited the other dog into a friendly greeting, rather are clearly ignoring each other.

Bella greeting Buddy in a soft manner.

Here, you can clearly see how floppy Bella's body is in greeting Buddy.  Buddy began inviting her into his space by getting low and play bowing numerous times just after walking together for about 20 minutes. Their body's became soft, tails flat, joints soft with lots of movement, eyes were soft with no direct staring.   These two dogs played very well in a 50-50 manner having just met 30 minutes ago.

In summary, keep in mind that your dog will have an opinion about what he wants or needs to feel safe when faced with a new person, dog or environment.  Take it slow,  and practice understanding your dog when he is happy and relaxed and also when he is stressed or anxious.  Knowing how your dog is feeling will help you understand how to help him through situations when he needs you most!

Can The Dogs Meet?

As a dog owner you must here this question once in a while, can they meet?  The bigger question is do they want to meet?

I highly recommend you watch both dogs body language for this answer.  Many dogs are friendly however there are also many dogs who have not had good experiences or maybe no experience with strange dogs entering their personal space.   Yes, your dog has a personal bubble and may or may not want strangers in it.

When two dogs see each other, watch your dogs body language as well as the other dogs.  This may take 5 or more minutes as you and the other owner have your own greeting while remaining 10 feet apart.  If your dog is turning his back to the new dog, then he is saying, no thanks.  If your dog is looking away from the other dog, yawning, sniffing the ground, scratching, hiding between your legs, then you know your dog is not interested in this greeting.  If you proceed with the greeting, your dog will most likely growl as if to clarify "not interested!"

On the other hand, if both dogs are play bowing, getting low to the ground or trying to crawl to each other then you know you have two dogs who are both interested in greeting or playing.  Again, the slower greeting you have the better success you will have.

So, my suggesting is to not ask the owner anymore, but to ask your dog how he feels about the situation.

This sweet black dog below is encouraging the smaller puppy to engage in play, this greeting took several minutes before both dogs were jumping around in lovely, bouncy play.

This handsome yellow lab is not interested in visiting with the other dogs in class, he continues to have a wide mouth pant and looks away from the other dogs.  While many of us social beings would love for our dogs to love every dog they meet, the reality is we need to ask our dogs what they want in order to set them up for success.

A Scientific Approach

I realize most of us grew up with a dog or new a friend that had a dog.  I often had six or more dogs running around our horse farm as word spread that my mom worked in rescue.  Many different breeds past through my home, much like they do today.  While I currently own 3 dogs, I always have a foster dog or two.

However, growing up with dogs does not make me an expert in dog behavior.  The truth is most of what I thought I knew was very skewed into what I wanted to believe.  Only when I began serious, full-time study and work in the practice of canine behavior, and gained experience working with hundreds of dogs and their owners, did I become an effective trainer.

3 Territorial dogs in training

The fact is, that unless you study canine body language, follow current research, work closely with veterinarians, are open to the fact that a thorough history is essential to your success, you may be making matters worse.  If a doctor treats a patient for arthritis when they actually have a torn tendon, this patient will not get better.  Similarly, if you treat a dog for dominant aggression when he is actually territorial aggressive you will not have success.

I recently met a lady who had just put her chocolate labrador to sleep for aggression. When I asked her if she had tried some behavior modification, she replied "yes, we have spent 6 months with a trainer."  When I asked her if her dog had made any progress, she replied "well, he had some good days, but he was actually getting worse, that is why we had to euthanize him."

Through my experience I know that when dog training is based on a scientific approach it is much much more effective.  One dog is not a scientific experiment, so while your neighbors, family and friends are all well meaning, please consider that their knowledge is limited.

If something is not working then consider the fact that the history or diagnosis may be incorrect.

Nail Trimming can be Pleasant

Many owners take their dogs to the groomer or vet simply to have their nails trimmed.  If you have a little time to work with your dog, you might find that trimming your dogs nails can be easy and even an enjoyable event for you and your dog.

In this video, I am desensitizing Pablo to having his nails trimmed.  Like many dogs, he does not enjoy this, however he tolerates it because it predicts him getting food, which he loves!

Note how Pablo begins to offer me his paw as the trim actually predicts his reward coming.

Do you remember going to the dentist as a child?  Who did not stare at the Treasure Chest and wonder what new toys might be inside!  This reward of getting to pick a toy was all I could think about!  Hence it made the entire process of holding my mouth open so the dentist could poke around bearable for me!

It is helpful to go at your dogs pace and be consistent.  Always begin each session the same, tap, treat, tap, treat, trim, treat, and so on.  Progressing to fast will only make your dog more anxious as the unknown is scary and the known is safer.