5 Body Postures, A Dog is Asking For Space

If humans better understood dogs body language then we would have less dogs resorting to a bite when they feel stressed or threatened.  We see several cues that this scared boy does not want to be touched.  Signals that are asking for distance are often very subtle.

Level 1 distance Cues:
1. Dogs body is leaning away from the approaching hand.
2. Dogs paw is raised in a submissive manner.
3. Head is moving away asking for increased distance.
4. Eyes are avoiding the stranger
5. Mouth is closed, rather than open and relaxed.

Dogs often ask for distance in the only way they know how, but if the scary hand keeps coming, your dog may resort to a level 2 distance cue like a Growl, lip curl or show of teeth with a rigid body.  I HOPE your dog growls rather than bites. Hence, do not punish the growl as it is an effective distance cue.  When the dog is punished for growling, but is still afraid of that hand coming as it predicts pain, he may bite to protect himself.  

Have you heard of someone who was bitten by a dog in the face while they were attempting to pet him or rub his belly?  It is probable the dog used some distance cues before he resorted to a bite. Unfortunately, it is likely the human did not understand the signals and continued forward until the dog felt so threatened he did not have time to use a more moderate level one or level two response.

Dogs that are fearful or have been threatened by a previous human will be on guard and defensive.  Canine behaviors asking for distance are far better than an attack with a bite, so please do not punish them. Rather, simply remove the approaching stimuli. Can you teach a dog a level 1 distance cue like a look away? Absolutely, but it takes time and patience -- and it is well worth the effort!

Why is my Dog Lunging on the Leash?

Do you own a dog that does not act "normal" when he sees another dog on leash? 

Learning good emotional control takes practice

Many dogs do not have good coping skills to greet another dog when confined by a leash.    You may describe this type of dog as fearful, hyper vigilant, aggressive, reactive, out of control, barks all the time, rude, pushy, anxious or even clingy.  Dogs who exhibit these behaviors are cruelly labeled and often given up on, but the truth is that these behaviors are your dog's way of begging for some help.  If your dog is displaying these emotions he is clearly not a calm dog, and therefore not a balanced or content dog.  Unbalanced dogs are riddled with emotions they cannot control, which make them difficult to live with and own, but these are the dogs that need us the most.....

With effective behavior modification programs, these anxious reactive dogs can thrive in our homes and communities.  Having a plan to keep them safe, predictable exercise routines, desensitization tools, healthy nutrition, doggie Zen and possibly medication, these dogs will love us unconditionally.  Just look in there eyes and help them feel safe, always..

If you have taken on the task to raise a dog with fearful reactive behaviors, know you are not alone.  I personally have three dogs who each have different levels of fears and often use distance cues with humans and dogs.  I understand your stress of owning an unbalanced dog....  Even my family members have called them names, not truly understanding my dogs level of stress. I feel an enormous amount of empathy for these animals as I see in their body language how much more worried they are then other dogs.  I have spent hours counter condition their fears to various stimuli and I work very hard to have a plan each time I take them in public so I can set them up

Thinking through arousal...

for success.  I manage for safety, continually counter condition their fear emotions to positive ones so they know what to do in different situations and cherish each calm moment we have together.  My two females came to me with bite histories and have each received their Canine Good Citizen Certification from two different trainers.  One has gone on to be Therapy Dog International Certified, so do not lose hope and celebrate each small daily success!  

Using the right balance of tools, your dog will one day be able to think through his arousal so you can reward him and not be frustrated with him.

Dog Aggression and Communication Signals

Why is my dog so aggressive to other dogs?  This can usually be diagnosed with a detailed history: no play ever, hereditary, mother was sick or a guarder, or over socialized with aggressive or rough playing dogs.

Cycle of On-Leash Aggression (created problem from humans), as described in the Culture Clash, by Jean Donaldson, "The Bully dog" is often kept away from other dogs for long periods of time, he is usually rude with crude behavior brought on by a super motivated greeting as a result of deprivation when meeting other dogs, and has poor social skills.  The owner is alarmed by intensity and tightens the leash and get’s too excited or nervous when interactions occur.  High arousal, lack of social skills, scuffles with defensive dogs can occur.  Barrier frustration such as windows, fences and leashes can increase the dogs frustration which makes you want to "correct" the behavior,  which = punishment  which = more Aggression = total isolation.

I believe dogs need time to express their intentions before they greet unknown dogs.  Personalities among dogs differ as much as a classroom full of kindergarteners, therefore, expecting your dog to like every dog they meet is not that simple. Some dogs are very soft and have appropriate greetings, these are the dogs who are able to visit the beach and off leash parks without incident. 

Helping your dog greet new dogs much slower will give your dog important and necessary information about the other dogs intentions.  To the left, you see the brown dog in the middle of this pack at a local park.  He is standing quite still with head lowered, visible tension in his jaw, mouth closed, low tail, ears back and a his hair beginning to stand up on his back.  He is very uncomfortable about being so close to a strange dog and was called away quickly to avoid any conflict.  This particular dog's behavior tells us humans that he needs a much slower greeting with new dogs.

In this photo to the left , this beautiful girl has just seen a new dog and is reading the other dogs intentions and clearly expressing hers as well.  Note the open mouth and soft eyes, lowered tail which is in motion and she is beginning to offer a play bow.  While she is expressing intentions that she does want to greet the new dog, she is very excited and the other dog is a bit alarmed by her intense need to visit.  After about 30 minutes of walking near each other, this girl and the other dog became play mates as you will see in the video below. 

If you have a new puppy, please keep him/her safe and find nice friendly dogs to socialize with.  Your dogs friends will influence his/her behavior! Just like you were influenced by those you visited with as an adolescent.  So, know who your dogs friends are and watch for signs of fair play between the two and you let's try to prevent aggression from spreading.  

Preventing Dog to Dog Aggression

Protect your dog from becoming aggressive by knowing where he is and who his playmates are.  The topic of leash aggression arises so often, I feel the need to address it often in my blogs.  For dog trainers it is very clear why we do not let our dogs greet unknown dogs while on leash. I want my dogs attention on ME when I have him on a leash.  I prefer he not pull my shoulder off my body when on leash, so I never let him greet other dogs when on leash and guess what?  He does not ask anymore because he knows the rule structure. In my opinion, the BEST reason to avoid letting your dog greet unknown dogs while on leash is to keep him or her safe.  Once your dog gets into a scuffle while on leash, just the site of a dog while on leash can become very scary for your pup.

tight leash is nearly un avoidable.

We have all seen or heard stories of two dogs greeting on leash and it ends badly.  Let's think about it, when dogs greet off-leash they are able to circle, sniff and have the freedom to move away if one dog becomes stiff and worried.  When on-leash we often tighten the leash, which makes the dog feel trapped because it cannot flee the environment. As a result, the constrained dog may send the other dog a distance cue like a hard eyed stare, a lip curl or a low growl.  Depending on the social skills of the other dog, this may turn into an unwanted scuffle. 

If you want your dog to have good social skills and avoid aggression, let him have an opportunity to socialize and play with other GOOD dogs. Start with an AKC STAR Puppy class, teach your dog leash manners throughout his adolescence and set up off-leash playdates with dog-friendly dogs that you know he enjoys playing with and who have owners that you are comfortable with.

Social dogs can relax in the presence of other
dogs even while being on a leash.

A large part of my business is helping dog owners understand why their dog is jumping and snarling when on a leash in the presence of another dog.  This behavior is done by your dog because he has learned that it keeps him/her safe.  Dogs that have been traumatized by another dog, or multiple dogs, learn that their best defense is a good offense.  If this behavior works for them, why would they need to change? Being safe simply feels good.

I do understand your dog needs daily exercise to get him through his adolescence. If your dog plays well with the neighbors dog, then your dog is already social! Walking on-leash together is a great way to learn leash manners around other dogs. Or, hire a dog-walker who only brings one dog to your session and watch how your dog interacts with that dog.  Your dog-walker will help him learn leash manners and prevent any unwanted behaviors from being reinforced.  Many dogs are surrendered because they can no longer cope with being on a leash in society.  Who's to blame?  These dogs were not born dog-aggressive. Rather, it is learned by putting them in environments that are out of control and scary.  So please know who your dog is playing with, and if the play is appropriate.  We can all agree that aggression breeds more aggression, so please know

who your dog's friends are!

In the photo to the right, my Outdoor Adventure Class is open to dog friendly dogs.  Dogs that have good emotional control, dogs that can sit and watch a dog go by without demanding to get to it, and dogs that are not overly pushy.  If your dog is demanding to say "hello" to every dog that goes by, think about why that behavior is developing and where it is being reinforced.   I hope to see you and your dog in a training class, while on-leash and enjoying each other's calm company!

Once a guarder, always a guarder?

Go away!

Zeke, my foster dachshund, was surrendered because he continually fought with another dog in his home.  This was particularly sad because he was given up by the family who adopted him as a pup. It was the only home Zeke was familiar with.  On the other hand, if Zeke was fighting with another dog in the home, did he feel safe in that home?  Why did he constantly want on his owners lap?  Was he guarding her, or was it that he felt safest when near her?  Why did he guard his crate?  Again, was it his or was it that he felt safe there? What made this behavior rewarding to Zeke?

I am pleased to inform you that after less than 3 weeks, Zeke has developed a trusting relationship with my three dogs.  Why is that important?  Because many dogs that guard are also fearful and defensive.  Once I reduced his fear, he now moves through the house with bones and toys in each room, and he no longer chases my dogs away from them or even gives them the "look".  They have walked past toys and bones so many times (and there are plenty to go around!), so guarding is not rewarding anymore.

I am warning you!

That does not mean he may not fall into old habits in his new home, but it does mean that I personally believe Zeke's underlying habitual guarding behavior stems from very poor social skills with both people and dogs.  Developing a trusting relationship with dogs in the home, and devaluing the objects he found high value, have been a successful plan for Zeke.

When Zeke, the Dachshund, would show his teeth at my dogs to gain access to more food I was holding, I walked him away and gave his share to my dogs.  I waited about 2 minutes and repeated this exercise of feeding everyone some chicken.  When Zeke focused on me and ignored my dogs, showing no distance cues at them, I rewarded him with chicken. Hence, he learned good social skills always gets rewarded in my home.

Canine Body Language Seminar

Presented by

Judy Moore ACDBC

Associate Certified Dog Behavior Consultant

When:    Saturday, January 4, 2014

Where:   Poetic Gold Farm 

              7 Trillium Lane, Falmouth, ME 

Time:    10am- noon

Fees:    Dogs attending for evaluation $75

            Attendees for audit $25

  

who is the most worried here?

I'll will review how canines communicate with each other and how they try to communicate with us. You will learn to identify signs of canine stress and fear which can assist you in preventing unwanted behaviors such as a snap or bite.  Many dogs offer distance cues, however we as humans miss them; therefore many dogs resort to a level 3 bite because no one respected the level 1 or 2 distance cue.

 If you work with, own, or live with a dog who exhibits shy or skittish behavior, you will benefit from a basic understanding of how they "speak" to us with body language. 

Live Demo dogs and Q&A discussion included!

For more information or to attend contact Judy at Judyamoore@mac.com

Maine's frist Match!

Dog Training Seminar to Benefit

Pets for Vets

Topic: Object and Food Guarding

Speaker/Evaluator

Judy Moore, ACDBC, CPDT-KA of

Canine Behavior Counseling, LLC

held at

PoeticGold Farm, 7 Trillium Lane, Falmouth ME

Home at last!

Saturday, December 14, 2013 from 10am-noon

Do you own, foster, or work with dogs that growl when you approach them while eating or when on your bed, or when being held? This seminar will address techniques to devalue items your dog thinks are high value using a Positive Approach.

Registration options:

1. A limited number of spaces are available to attend with your dog and have him/her evaluated at the seminar the fee is $75.

2. To attend the seminar without your dog but with questions about your dogs behavior and the opportunity to learn the techniques through observation the fee is $25.

For more information or to attend email Judy at judyamoore@mac.com

20% of the proceeds will go to support the Pets for Vets Program

http://pets-for-vets.com/category/northeast/portlandme/

Associate Certified Dog Behavior Consultant now available in Portland Maine

BIG NEWS!!

I am very proud to announce my hard work and continued education has earned me the title of

Happy clients and well behaved dogs

Associate Certified Dog Behavior Consultant- ACDBC.  I am the only ACDBC south of Bangor, and the only one in Portland, Maine.  My desire to better understand dog behavior and behavior problems is on going and I will continue to study and learn to better help my clients.

For clients in the Bangor area, please reach out to Don Hanson, of Green Acres Kennels as he is a CDBC and a person I myself reach out to.  Welcome to Green Acres Kennel Shop - Green Acres Kennel Shop

Already have a dog trainer?  Please be sure you are using someone certified by a recognizable organization such as:

APDT  the Association of Pet Dog Trainers 

IAABC  International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants

CCPDT Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers

For help in setting you and your dog up for success, I certainly recommend a Certified positive reinforcement trainer.  

What Does Stress Look Like?

When I think of unwanted behavior, I think of stress as the two are often related.

This dog is worried

Go Away!

My goal here is to help you identify your dogs stress signals so you can get them help before this stress causes unwanted behavior. Science clearly states that stress leads to health problems, negatively affect relationships with others and can also make us grumpy, irritable, less tolerant and even aggressive.

Is it true if we humans are stressed our dogs can sense it?  Yes, when we feel worried, anxious or angry, our dogs will certainly be effected in some way.  Different dogs will react differently to mental and physical pressures in their environment.

How many of us often turn to physical exercise to relieve stress or tension felt from our environment.  Is your dog able to go for a daily jog to relieve the stress he carries around or is he confined to run the fence line and bark in frustration becoming more and more aroused.  Does he destructively chew your furniture, pace wildly and mouth your arms and hands when you enter?  You may perceive this mouthy greeting as excitement, but it is stress.

An unfamiliar dog has approached to the
right, this mix is looking away to avoid conflict. 

Signs of Stress come in many different forms:

• Does your dog ever bark rapidly, scan the environment for a threat, pace back and forth, tremble, chew in a ripping or destructive manner, pant when not tired, flatten his ears back, lower his head when approached (guilty appearance), cower or urinate when you or anyone else approaches, hide between your feet, growl, lick his lips when not eating,  yawn when not tired, turn his nose away from his favorite treat when in an unfamiliar environment.  Urinate or defecate when arriving at a new home, or training center.  
• Young adolescent pups may playfully mount dogs or humans or do this as a sign of stress as is biting the leash and excessive mouthing of human hands. Exaggerated self grooming which can cause hair loss, sudden outbreak of dander can also be stress related. 



White dog is fearful and sniffs
  to avoid greeting

• Does your dog often begin to sniff the ground when meeting new dogs, stop to scratch just as a greeting is about to occur, avoids the new dog completely?  We know stress can effect health, stress that continues over a period of time can cause a dogs immune system to become fragile due to increased cortisol in the system.  Have you ever considered that a dogs unpleasant body odor or bad breath can be the result of high stress. 

Environmental triggers are everywhere,  who is

Where is this dogs
weight shifted?

present, how many stimuli, if they are approaching slowly or quickly, how your dog feels at that moment, what smells are near, what he sees and hears are all triggers that can cause your dog stress and they are constantly effecting your dogs behavior.

Knowing the signs of stress in your dog is essential to keep him safe, happy and healthy.

For more information consider reading Stress in Dogs by Marina Scholz and Clarissa Von Reinhardt, well worth the time to read.

Have a Plan When Changing Behavior

When a dog is repeatedly frightened by the same stimuli, and is not ever given a chance to think and feel differently about this stimuli, you will likely see the same reaction long term to this stimuli whenever it presents itself.

Pablo looks at me with dogs
in the distance

Systematic Desensitization and Counter Conditioning is the process of learning to think and feel differently about a particular stimuli.  Remember it is the feeling or emotion that is going to drive the behavior you see in your dog.  Stopping the behavior by a shock, will obviously make the dog stop the behavior to avoid the shock, but does nothing to help the dog feel any better about the scary stimuli and often times will make the dog react stronger the next time.

Have a plan!  Spring is a time when people and children will be out and about not only a lot more, but at predictable times.  Skate boards, bikes, scooters and motorcycles will all be zipping by very soon.  If these are things your dogs gets aroused and barks or lunges at, then let's make a plan!

Think about rewarding your dog for staying calm when he hears the trigger, be sure your dog is definitely going to practice a new behavior.  How?   Be far enough away from the stimuli and have high enough motivation that your dog can not fail!  Once you start getting a new behavior, you realize your dog can change his habits, he just needs you to set him up for success and be sure he can stay under threshold so his old habit does not appear.

When your dog is under threshold or far enough away from the scary stimuli that he is able to think about the stimuli and how he feels, you know you are making progress!

So, if given the chance, would your dog would run across the street and bark at the neighbor child on his scooter? If the answer is, "Yes", then start with your dog down the street each day at the optimal time, and reward your dog for looking or just alerting to the neighbor as he comes out.  Each day use high value rewards and get just five feet or so closer to the neighbor.  Over time, your dog will realize that the presence of the neighbor predicts him getting his treat; hence his emotion to the neighbor appearing will be very different in just a few training sessions.

Please do not try to get closer every day, but stay the same distance so your dog can feel safe.  Going too fast is a common problem and will most likely force your dog to use an old unwanted habit.

Finally, I recommend you always end on a good moment when things are calm and going smoothly so when you begin the next time, you and your dog will have a good feeling about training in this location. 

Changing Behavior

When changing your dogs behavior or habits it is best to go slow and keep it simple.  Changing habits takes time and while the process may seem overwhelming at times, remember small successes are a big deal!

Steps to changing your dogs behavior: 

1. Make a plan, put it in writing, including specific detailed goals

2. Identify your dogs triggers and the alternative behavior you desire

3. Focus on asking your dog to do the alternative behavior or habit every single time the trigger happens at a distance, for several weeks.

4. Reward your dog generously for offering the alternative behavior

several reactive dogs changing their behavior

• Reward even if the dog attempts the behavior.
• Reward even if the dog takes one step or turns his head to consider the option of complying.
• Avoid only rewarding when the dog completes the new behavior, but do reward the dog for even the slightest attempt of any new behavior.  This is called a "choice point",  it is to your advantage to reward any attempt in making the correct choice!  
• Avoid this mistake:  if your dog is afraid of the mail carrier, then begin with all adults but avoid the mail carrier for now.  When your expectations are not real, you will be frustrated. Setting your dog up for success is best done when the triggers are very low and far away, this is a good plan for getting an alternative behavior started.
• Even if the dog does it for one second!  When you begin to reward slight offerings of new behavior, your dog will more likely want to continue to play this new game!

Take it slow, breathe,  and relax as your dog is depending on you!  Setting your dog up for success also implies training when YOU are in a calm mental state.  If it helps, think of the many things your dog does right and build one small behavior at a time!

Next, I will offer specific games to play in specific locations to help you progress.

Aggression in Dogs

Canine aggression will always be an interesting topic discussed among dog lovers.  We know conflicts are normal and it is our job as humans to teach young children how to cope or resolve conflicts with other children and adults.

A Stressful Greeting

We humans are taught to resolve conflict by using our words at a young age, often through examples by our parents, teachers and grandparents.  Yet, many teenagers and adults have difficulty coping with conflict and may find themselves in a yelling or physical situation.  Having someone who loves them and are willing to help them change their behavior in very small steps is a blessing and a must for them to be successful.

If you find yourself the owner of a dog showing aggression, take a deep breath and first realize that changing behavior is difficult and will take time.  Many animals use whatever defensive mechanisms they have  to scare threatening intruders or scary stimuli away as a mechanism to feel safe.  Cows may only be able to kick at their aggressor, chickens may claw and use their beaks to peck or bite a scary stimuli.  Cats are known for their hissing, arched back and fast clawing as a way to say "back off."

Our furry canine friends also use what works for them which is often rapid barking, growling, show of teeth, lunging or snapping to scare off anything that they are afraid of.  If your dog is getting into scuffles at a park or daycare, please do not take him there anymore.  Aggression is a defensive mechanism that dogs will use to keep themselves safe or gain resources.  If your dog learns that aggression works, then he will continue to use it and even get good at it.

Now, avoid putting your dog in situations where he is showing even the smallest amount of aggression as you want to change this behavior right?  Then eliminate the possibility of practicing an unwanted behavior.

• Make a list of the triggers that set him off, even those that put him into a heightened arousal or anxious state.  
• Make a list of the alternative behavior you prefer your dog do.
• Start slow and set your dog up for success.  For example if your dog barks at kids 20 feet away, then keep him 60 feet away for now.
• Know what motivates your dog and be GENEROUS with the reward when he offers the alternative behavior.

This is just the beginning, breathe, really take a big breath as your tension is not helpful to your dog in any way while helping him feel safer.  Make your plan and remember your entire day is a series of habits or sequences of behavior just like your dog.  So, your plan should set your dog up for success just for today as we will be taking this one day at a time.  Stay tuned for more tips on changing your dogs behavior.

My Dog Bites

Have you ever been told "YOUR DOG JUST BIT ME"?  In all honesty,  I believe the owner of the dog that bites feels much worse than the person who has been bitten and is yelling.  I am not talking about a bite that requires stitches, but a level one bruise with the front teeth.  I understand the yelling is to make the owner feel bad, but trust me, the owner is already upset and wondering if they are going to be able to keep their beloved furry friend with those sweet eyes.

Relaxing with guests in the house

When we choose to own a dog that we fear may bite someone, we need to first manage our dog so he cannot get himself into trouble.  But, many dogs get worse when only management is used.  For example, every time a guest arrives, Fido gets abandoned to the back bedroom, can you imagine being put in a room with a Grizzly Bear right on the other side of the door?  How would you feel?   Sure, when you open the door Fido will run through the house to see if the scary strangers are anywhere lurking, just to make sure he is safe and will not be ambushed and eaten! 

How sad is it that this Fido lives in real fear of the unknown stranger?  While many dogs can be socialized later in life with people and kids, there are some who just do not seem to improve.  Maybe your training is going too fast for the dog to cope, maybe you are changing the stimuli too often, maybe you are changing the environment too often, maybe your dog does not know how to relax, maybe he does not see you as his protector, maybe he has protected himself before using a snap and it worked. Maybe he is becoming more sensitized then desensitized.

Have you considered this scenario?  A mother dog is about to give birth, she is stressed and confined but hears scary noises nearby so she barks to warn off any intruders. Studies suggest her pups may feel her stress even before she gives birth.  Imagine the pups that are born in an empty lot, under a car, and all they hear for hours upon hours is their mother barking in frantic attempts to keep the humans away from coming near her or her litter.   These pups are more likely to grow up believing humans are something to be feared because their mother said so and she knows best.

Owning a dog who greets every new person in a defensive manner with a low growl, rapid barking, or lunging and snapping is certainly not for everyone.  But what if you have fallen for those sweet eyes already? Using management that feels good to the dog, counter conditioning in a positive way,  teaching our dogs to relax on cue, learning to understand your dogs body language when he needs space and talking to your vet about medication are all tools we use to help our dogs cope and stay safe. Remember: a dog that feels safe and less threatened, is also less defensive and less likely to bite!

Now ask yourself, would YOU go sky diving, bungee jumping, climb Mt. Everest, become a vegetarian,  give a speech on the fiscal cliff?  Why not?  Personally, I have my own fears like swimming in the ocean, I am terrified of drowning.  Yet, we push our dogs to do things that terrify them because we have some fantasy that our dogs must be perfect.  We are not and neither are they, so helping them feel safe and cope with their fears is better than thinking we need to change who they are.

Canine Body Language Seminar

Mia greeting me with her back for safety.

Thank you to everyone who attended our Canine Body Language Seminar held at Poetic Gold Farm in Falmouth this past Sunday!  I believe, from all the positive feedback I have received, we accomplished our goal of helping everyone see that our dogs really do speak with their body movements.  When we take time to observe our dogs stance, their weight distribution, what their ears, eyes, tail, mouth, brows and tongue,  are doing as well as their over all body firmness, we can learn a great deal about our dogs emotional state.  With just a bit of practice we can understand what our dog is feeling given the situation they are in and how to help them if they are fearful or stressed.  As you can see in the above photo, Mia was not comfortable greeting me for the first time facing me, instead, each time turned and gave me her back, with ears down and back, tongue flicking up and out.  She clearly has a bit of hesitation when greeting someone new, but she did quickly warm up and roll on the ground in a relaxed goofy manner.

We certainly all agreed that when it comes to a dog greeting a strange person or new dog, the dog always has an opinion.  Rather than asking "can our dogs meet", we should all be asking "do our dog's want to meet" the strange dog or person.

Pablo is fearful of people and has begun to ground sniff.

Knowing how your dog is feeling in different situations will help you set him up for success.  Note in this photo, Pablo is sniffing the ground, he is uncomfortable with all the humans looking at him and has resorted to ground sniffing as it is comforting to him.  Knowing he was stressed I had my daughter play a game of "find it",  he happily ate the treats and kept a safe distance from the observers.

Bella is avoiding Pablo by sniffing in the grass.

As you can see from this photo taken a few weeks earlier, these two dogs having just met are not comfortable entering each other's space and therefore are demonstrating some avoidance.  Note Bella sniffing the grass and Pablo has a high tail and fairly stiff gate. This is the dogs way of keeping themselves safe, as neither dog invited the other dog into a friendly greeting, rather are clearly ignoring each other.

Bella greeting Buddy in a soft manner.

Here, you can clearly see how floppy Bella's body is in greeting Buddy.  Buddy began inviting her into his space by getting low and play bowing numerous times just after walking together for about 20 minutes. Their body's became soft, tails flat, joints soft with lots of movement, eyes were soft with no direct staring.   These two dogs played very well in a 50-50 manner having just met 30 minutes ago.

In summary, keep in mind that your dog will have an opinion about what he wants or needs to feel safe when faced with a new person, dog or environment.  Take it slow,  and practice understanding your dog when he is happy and relaxed and also when he is stressed or anxious.  Knowing how your dog is feeling will help you understand how to help him through situations when he needs you most!

Dog Bites Mail Carrier

The human canine bond is incredibly special, and as canine lovers we bend all the rules to keep our own dog safe and out of trouble.  However, sometimes our dogs use their Hind Brain which controls their reactive, reflexive and poor impulse control which can get them into trouble.  If your dog is a thinking dog he is using his Front Brain more often and is more responsive, more conscious and has better impulse control.

Do you really know who your dog is?

Starting pups in classes creates a thinking dog.

If today, you opened your front door and are startled to see the mail carrier, will your dog bark, lunge, attack or wiggle?  Do you know why he behaves this way?  Are you comfortable helping him behave differently?

Helping your dog be a thinking dog can be a real lifestyle change.  You can start by washing your dogs bowl and putting it in storage.  Hand feeding your dog his meals as rewards for good behavior each day for behaviors both in and outside the home will help your dog be thinking more often.  Enroll your dog in private training lessons, basic obedience, rally, agility or tracking class to help him become a thinking dog rather than a reactive dog.  If you are not sure what your dog can handle, get a professional evaluation to set you and your dog up for success.  Helping your dog see a stimuli, including the mail carrier and think before he reacts is as rewarding for you as it is the dog.

Setting your dog up for success and helping him be a thinking dog instead of a reacting dog takes patience, good timing and daily practice.  When you see your dog go through a "switch over" and begin using his thinking skills when he sees certain stimuli, then you will know who your dog is becoming!

Can The Dogs Meet?

As a dog owner you must here this question once in a while, can they meet?  The bigger question is do they want to meet?

I highly recommend you watch both dogs body language for this answer.  Many dogs are friendly however there are also many dogs who have not had good experiences or maybe no experience with strange dogs entering their personal space.   Yes, your dog has a personal bubble and may or may not want strangers in it.

When two dogs see each other, watch your dogs body language as well as the other dogs.  This may take 5 or more minutes as you and the other owner have your own greeting while remaining 10 feet apart.  If your dog is turning his back to the new dog, then he is saying, no thanks.  If your dog is looking away from the other dog, yawning, sniffing the ground, scratching, hiding between your legs, then you know your dog is not interested in this greeting.  If you proceed with the greeting, your dog will most likely growl as if to clarify "not interested!"

On the other hand, if both dogs are play bowing, getting low to the ground or trying to crawl to each other then you know you have two dogs who are both interested in greeting or playing.  Again, the slower greeting you have the better success you will have.

So, my suggesting is to not ask the owner anymore, but to ask your dog how he feels about the situation.

This sweet black dog below is encouraging the smaller puppy to engage in play, this greeting took several minutes before both dogs were jumping around in lovely, bouncy play.

This handsome yellow lab is not interested in visiting with the other dogs in class, he continues to have a wide mouth pant and looks away from the other dogs.  While many of us social beings would love for our dogs to love every dog they meet, the reality is we need to ask our dogs what they want in order to set them up for success.

A Scientific Approach

I realize most of us grew up with a dog or new a friend that had a dog.  I often had six or more dogs running around our horse farm as word spread that my mom worked in rescue.  Many different breeds past through my home, much like they do today.  While I currently own 3 dogs, I always have a foster dog or two.

However, growing up with dogs does not make me an expert in dog behavior.  The truth is most of what I thought I knew was very skewed into what I wanted to believe.  Only when I began serious, full-time study and work in the practice of canine behavior, and gained experience working with hundreds of dogs and their owners, did I become an effective trainer.

3 Territorial dogs in training

The fact is, that unless you study canine body language, follow current research, work closely with veterinarians, are open to the fact that a thorough history is essential to your success, you may be making matters worse.  If a doctor treats a patient for arthritis when they actually have a torn tendon, this patient will not get better.  Similarly, if you treat a dog for dominant aggression when he is actually territorial aggressive you will not have success.

I recently met a lady who had just put her chocolate labrador to sleep for aggression. When I asked her if she had tried some behavior modification, she replied "yes, we have spent 6 months with a trainer."  When I asked her if her dog had made any progress, she replied "well, he had some good days, but he was actually getting worse, that is why we had to euthanize him."

Through my experience I know that when dog training is based on a scientific approach it is much much more effective.  One dog is not a scientific experiment, so while your neighbors, family and friends are all well meaning, please consider that their knowledge is limited.

If something is not working then consider the fact that the history or diagnosis may be incorrect.

Car Aggression

Have you ever walked by a car with a barking dog inside?  What did you do?  Stop and stare? Ignore it? You most likely kept walking as you were going somewhere.  You may have thought "someone should correct that yappy dog!"

This pup has no worries:0)  If he barks it is only so you
come give him affection.

The dog however is rewarded when you move away, especially if you stopped and confronted him with a look, then turned and walked away.  How many times can a dog get a reward from barking at people that walk past his car in just a short shopping trip?  Each one is reinforcing his behavior, he has no reason to stop, he made you move away!  This environment is encouraging him to practice an unwanted behavior.

 If your dog does not bark in the car, then he is most likely a happy dog that is not worried about being confined.  However if your dog barks in the car, he may also bark in a crate, the house or a fenced in yard.  This type of dog has issues with confinement which need to be addressed.  Sure you can "correct" the behavior, which only stops it when you are there, but it does nothing to change the emotional state of the dog, so his behavior will most likely become more intense over time as he seeks out the reward more often.

Helping the dog learn to associate confinement as a positive rather than something that is frustrating or scary is the key to helping the dog curb his barking behavior whether you are there or not.  Consider a dog that is aggressive in a crate when you approach, showing his teeth and barking wildly.  Try to approach, toss a treat and retreat away, do this 10 or so times until the dog is happy with your approach.

How about a dog that is growling and barking in a car?  I bet if you have a friend approach, toss a yummy treat in the window and retreat several times, the dog will stop barking and look forward to his approach. With repetition of this conditioning "people approaching my car = something yummy"  The dogs association is changed so the behavior is also changed.  Does this training take time, yes, but is well worth the effort if you want your dog to mature with less stress and frustration.  The fact that the dog stops barking is a bonus reward for you!

Leash Frustration

While many dogs enjoy playing with other dogs off leash, they may act frustrated, excited or even aggressive at the site of a dog when on leash.  It's unfortunate that the leash is a safety tool for us, yet can create what appears to be a Jekyll and Hyde reaction in our dogs. For obvious reasons, we must use a leash to protect our dogs and I am happy many of you do use them as they are the law in many places.

Why is this the case with some dogs? 

Dogs weren't born knowing how to be walked on a leash, and we humans weren't born knowing how to use them. Some of you may remember growing up with dogs in the neighborhood running around and greeting with no altercations.  That is because it is normal behavior for dogs to meet, greet, and/or sniff every other dog, person, or tree. It's nice to be that excited about everything, isn't it? 

This is where the term "barrier frustration" is often discussed in dog training. It's when something, in this case the leash, prevents a dog from getting to what he wants, over time this often results (inadvertently) into this frustrating or aggressive reaction. This lack of emotional control "I want it, I want it now! I must meet that other dog!" response inadvertently gets punished.  In many cases, dogs contained by invisible fences where there is a great deal of foot traffic will experience this heightened frustration.

Over time, with each on-leash walking episode, this frustration builds and builds and builds, and gets to the point where the mere sight of another dog triggers this frustrated reaction. Many dogs begin to associates other dogs with frustration. And we're all familiar with feelings of frustration - similar to going to the vending machine every day for months to get your favorite afternoon snack, only to have the machine eat your money and the snack get stuck as it is deposited.  Have you ever seen anyone hit, kick or even shake the machine?  Maybe you have felt this frustration.  Imagine if it happened every week!

Regardless of the "why", the solution is the same:  Teach Your Dog a Rewarding Incompatible Behavior.  Something that's fun, rewarding, and what will soon become the better, more desirable choice when out walking.

Two easy behaviors I find that work well are 1) "Auto Watch or Watch Me"—Your dog makes eye contact with you and he gets a treat.   2) "Find it"— where you toss a treat on the ground right in front of him, thus keeping his head focused somewhere else while having him "hunt", an activity many dogs enjoy. 

I suggest you take his meals on the road, but along with his regular kibble, add something he's more likely to be crazy for. This way your dog is more likely to pay attention to you, and not bark and lunge at the end of the leash.  Begin with these games in your home or yard where you have no distractions.  Then gradually expose your dog to a dog at a great distance and continue to play "find it" or say "watch me" when your dog simply looks at a dog.  Over time, your dog will look at a dog, then automatically look at you, hence the "auto watch" and be rewarded!  

With consistency, your dog will start to look at you as soon as he sees a new dog in anticipation of a fun game!  Be excited and generous with your rewards.

Gracie making friends

Gracie the Pitt mix on the right has been a foster dog at Tender Touch for over two years.  She found herself in a fight with another dog over a bone.  Unfortunately for Gracie, she caused quite a bit of damage to the other dog.

Annie and Gracie learning to trust.

Here you see Gracie has learned to make friends with my Annabelle after about 20 minutes of introductions.  We have fed them treats together and Gracie is non confrontational.

Below you will see Gracie out for a walk with several other dogs.  She showed great communication skills even trying to get a few of the boys in the group to play!  The key to helping Gracie have success in the presence of new dogs is a very slow greeting.  She needs time to trust the other dog before she allows them in her space.

Gracie learning to trust new dogs.

Many dogs will snarl or snap when they first meet a new dog.  This does not mean that they will never be friends, however it does mean that the dog that is snappy does not feel safe.  Helping  this dog feel safe by taking a long walk with the new dog will help.  Should you punish your dog for being aggressive to a new dog?  No, your punishment will only make your dog more stressed.  Building a positive association between the two dogs is the best approach.

Keep in mind that being near a new dog outside is much easier than being with the same dog inside a home.  So, take it slow by bring the dogs together, then apart and repeat until you see both dogs relax.  This may actually take a few days before they feel comfortable in a home together.