Friday, December 23, 2011

Guarding

Dogs are not born with guarding behaviors, but may learn at a very young age that guarding earns them valuable resources.  Think about a litter of 10 pups, with only 8 places to nurse, a pup may learn that they must be pushy or even assertive to eat.  I am not saying that all pups in large litters are more likely to be guarders, a good breeder will notice if one pup becomes too pushy and separate the group so this behavior is not practiced.

What I am saying, is that guarding a resource is a behavior that is learned through practice and having small successes over a period of time.  The dogs that learn to guard in my opinion are the smart dogs, while not acceptable in the family dog, you can't argue that they are thinking dogs.

Can a dog go from guarding items, food or even thresholds in one home to not guarding in another?  Many dogs learn that what worked in one environment, may not work or be necessary in another.  For example, if a worried dog stands and barks at you in a doorway and you turn and leave, this dog will certainly try this behavior again as it worked for him.  However, if you ignore his barks and walk right past him, he learns that standing his ground does not work and may try another behavior.  Depending on his confidence level, he may try to bite next time or he may offer an appeasing behavior like a body wag as if to say, "Okay, let's be friends."

If a small dog stands on mom's lap and growls at the approaching dog, when the approaching dog turns and walks away, the dog growling learns that this behavior works and will certainly use it again.  If however, this small dog begins to get stiff or stare at the approaching dog, the owner may choose to quickly plop the small dog behind the couch as a consequence, no emotion or words needed.  With the small dog on her lap again, she will offer her a treat and use verbal praise when she allows a pack member to approach.  Counter Conditioning new rules in the same environment, this small dog learns that when she guards, she loses the valuable resource and when she complies, she gets to keep her resource and gets a bonus treat too!  With consistent repetition and knowing what you are rewarding most dogs can learn not to guard items in old and new environments.

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Recognizing the signs of Bloat



See for yourself what the signs and symptoms look like.  This is a serious canine ailment which unfortunately too often proves to be fatal.  Please take time to watch the entire video.

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Truman Update

Truman snuggling with Annie
As many of you know, I am fostering this male 2 year old red bone hound mix named Truman.  He is a sweet shy boy and has joined my family of 5 and 3 dogs extremely well!

Truman loves to be with me and does follow me around.  He is crate trained, house broken and an easy keeper as he is most content when at my feet.

Truman loves dogs, all dogs, he will play if invited or will leave an older dog alone if asked.  He takes treats with a gently mouth, will sit and stay, comes when called and is wonderful off leash.  No worries about loosing this boy, he is happy to come when called.

Truman is an alarm barker when someone knocks at the door but quickly greets guests with wiggles and wags.  He sometimes gets startled and barks when someone gets up and moves around the house.  We use friendly gestures such as turning sideways, squatting down and talking calmly to help Truman feel safe, he is fine each time and comes into the persons space.

Truman is such an easy keeper, I have offered to keep him through the holidays rather than sending him to a kennel and yes he has a bone wrapped under the tree!

If I venture out on any trails this holiday season, you can bet Truman will be at my side as he loves to run off leash.

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Barking

I frequently get asked about barking problems or why do dogs bark?  Our dogs bark for a variety of reasons: 
  • Dogs will bark if they feel threatened. 
  • They may bark when they play and get excited.
  • Some dogs will bark for attention from us or another dog. 
  • Some will bark if they are in pain and they’ll even bark when they’re lonely, bored or stressed. 
  • Certain breeds or breed types are also genetically inclined to bark more than others.
Desensitizing these shelties to moving stimuli
How you’ll prevent or resolve your issue with barking will partially depend on what is triggering your dog to bark. For example if your dog is barking or vocalizing because he’s in pain, treating the source of his pain would be the obvious solution. If your dog is barking through the front window as dogs pass by your house, blocking off access to that window is a simple way to help prevent his barking.


Keep in mind that the more your dog practices barking the better he’ll get at it. So identifying what is triggering your dog to bark and if possible, removing the trigger or changing the emotions that cause your dog to bark are best.  For Example, if your dog barks each day he hears the mail truck, take your dog out side and reward you dog with a yummy treat for looking at the truck, after a few days of this classical conditioning, take your dog out and reward him for looking at you or any other behavior they offer before they bark.  Eventually, your dog will learn to simply look at the mail truck and watch it go by with no worries at all.

In my opinion, antibark collars which use shock are inhumane and are inappropriate for all kinds of barking problems (and often make the problem worse). Many dogs that have been shocked for barking at a mail man or garbage truck have ended up trying to bite this stimuli which causes them pain each time it is near.  With the right kind of behavior modification and a strong desire to stop the problem, most pet parents can successfully resolve barking issues using classical conditioning methods.

The Alert Barker does so to alert you to someone or something outside, the answer is quite simple. Remove the source of what triggers his barking. For instance if your dog barks at people as they walk past your home, prevent his access to the window using furniture, closing blinds, blocking off the area with a baby gate.  Remember, if your dog barks and the person or dog moves away, this is very rewarding for the dog and will certainly be repeated.

The Lonely Barker is often more simple to modify, try changing your dog’s environment a bit.
Remember that your dog probably wants to be with people. Dogs who are left outside for long periods of time are often the worst offenders of barking. Your dog needs to play with you and feel like he is a part of the family. Dogs typically don’t do well when left alone for long periods of time. Make sure you set aside time for regular walks, playtime – even some training sessions. You’ll want to be sure that you give him the social contact that he needs to keep his body and mind occupied. Barking when left alone may also indicate separation anxiety. If you think that anxiety is the source of your dog’s barking, contact a certified dog trainer.

Attention Barking  may be a dog that barked and you tossed him a toy, you have just taught your dog, “When I bark you play!” Even if you look at him or verbally scold your dog when he barks, you will still be teaching him that his barking is a successful way to get your attention. What can you do?  You need to ignore his demands. His barking may initially
increase and so don’t give in or he will learn that persistence pays off. However, if he barks and you really ignore him or even better if you ignore him and walk away until he is quiet, he will eventually learn that barking doesn’t work and it will decrease.  


Our dogs are not trying to dominate us, they simply do a behavior and if something follows that they like then they will repeat the behavior.  Dogs are smarter than we think, so be carful and watch what you are rewarding!

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Does What I Do Affect Me?

I often hear "my dog is stubborn" keep in mind that dogs have both positive and negative reinforcers not only from the environment but sometimes from you!   Reinforcers are consequences that increase the likely hood the behavior will occur again.  I focus on Positive Reinforcers which is adding something that the dog likes, such as yummy food, affection or play after the behavior.

Negative Reinforcement training
Negative reinforces are consequences which increase behavior but by removing something unpleasant, like you stop applying pressure to the dogs neck when he lies down.  This dog is learning that training is not fun, just look at his confused face.

Your voice and body language may be saying something different.  If you are yelling "come" in a stern tone while you smile, what is your dog to think?  Sending mixed signals will confuse your dog and most likely encourage him to hesitate or simply avoid you.

Yum Yum Trick

We act on our choices every day which lead to consequences that would not have happened if we hadn't done something.  If you do not work, you do not get paid, if you do not put gas in the car, it will not move. If you ask your dog to sit and he does not, he doest't get the treat.  If a wild fox does not hunt, he does not eat.  Animals learn each and every day that things happen because they do things.

When we teach our dogs that they will be rewarded with food, affection, freedom and play for good choices each and every day, they learn to comply happily.  Pablo has learned that when I say "Yum yum" and he licks his lips, he gets rewarded!  This type of reinforcement is not only good for your dog, but your family and friends as well!



Saturday, December 10, 2011

Truman making friends



Truman, is CBC's newest foster dog and is oh so handsome!  He has a lovely play style with dogs, comes when called and can be taken off leash anywhere!  He is super gently and very wiggly when greeting a new dog.


Truman on the right is playing with Pablo
Here is a video of Truman greeting my boy Pablo for the first time.   Yes, I have a muzzle on Pablo as there were a few other dogs in the area.  While Pablo does well one on one, 3 or more is a crowd and he can become defensive, convinced the other two are going to gang up on him.

Truman on the other hand, couldn't have been more lovely to watch, convincing Pablo he meant no harm, only play!  During this day out, Truman met 4 men with dogs, taking treats from 3 showing only friendly behaviors.

I will continue to monitor his relationship with men with the goal of desensitizing him to what ever trigger seems to make him nervous.  He has such a playful way with dogs, this boy won't wait long for a forever home!

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

A Stranger in My House

Sophie with the stranger
Sophie, my scottie is clearly concerned about the presence of this stranger near her.  Her eye is on him, her tail is up, she is standing rigid and not moving.  I quickly asked him to stand still until I could reengage her in her ball.

As this worker moved about the house, I used play to desensitize her to his presence.  This Counter Conditioning process involves taking a fear provoking stimulus (stranger) and changing the association to one of signaling something (pleasant) in this case, a play session.

I began this process over 1 year ago with children and strangers on my street and in my yard, by using yummy treats or play to counter condition Sophie's emotional response when strangers were present.  This generalization stage is the phase of learning where the dog learns that the new association is relevant in a variety of circumstances and situations. Sophie now enjoys strangers entering our home as she associates them with something positive, but having this stranger disappear and reappear with no warning from inside is something very unsettling for her.

I am sure once I get this situation comfortable for Sophie, she will again alert me to something new with a guest or stranger that she is not comfortable with.  I believe I will always need a maintenance stage in which I incorporate repetitions from previous training stages to encourage the appropriate emotional response from her.

While many dogs can be counter conditioned quicker, I adopted Sophie at age 5, so her behaviors had been practiced for some time, but her progress is steady and improving with each play session!

Monday, December 5, 2011

Who is Training Who?

Have you ever thought about how your dog has 2 trainers in most situations?  It is true, both you and the environment are influencing your dogs behavior.  Any stimuli in the environment (sounds, smells, people, dogs, objects, etc.) can effect your dogs behavior.

Relaxed, Positive Energy 
Knowing how to use Classical and Operant Conditioning methods is the key to setting your dog up for success in many different environments. Classical Conditioning is how your dog feels about something and Operant gives your dog an alternate behavior to choose.

The key to remember is that your frustration can play a big role in how your dog feels about any given stimuli.  Patience, practice and a positive attitude will help you achieve success with your dog.

When you become the the primary means of delivering all rewards to your dog and learn to reinforce all of his good choices, then YOU become the most influential to your dog, not the environment. This is such a simple thought, but so important to helping any dog over come obstacles in the environment.

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Looks are Deceiving

I love this photo! Not because the terrier is absolutely adorable when rushing at the Shepherd cross but because no one told him she was part "wolf".  He has no worries and simply wants to Play!  Both dogs are only one year old.

While it appears that a fight may begin, the terrier assures the larger female of his intentions by his lovely body skills and soft mouth.  Of the two, the terrier has more play experience than the larger dog.  If you had only seen this photo, you may have been alarmed, but I can assure you that play followed for some time.

The communication is endless from the female with ears back, soft eyes, lifted paw, leaning backwards, soft joints, open mouth with no teeth showing.  One vital piece of information for her is that the terrier is not looking in her eyes, yet off to the side which is non confrontational.

One friend is better than no friends!

Monday, November 14, 2011

Treat and Retreat

I am not sure who first came up with the phrase "treat and retreat", Ian Dunbar or possibly Suzanne Clothier but this concept really works!

If you are ever in a situation where you are face to face with a growly dog, it is wise not to try to dominate this kind of canine.  As trainers, we repeatedly discover that the dog doing the growling is as uncomfortable with the situation as the human is.  The best way to ease the tension is to communicate your friendly intentions as calmly and quickly as possible!

This is where the use of a treat can be tossed behind the dog, as the dog goes to check out the treat, you can retreat a bit for safety.  Having someone holding the dogs leash is always a smart idea as you proceed to toss treats behind the dog and watch him get the treat and come a bit closer to you each time.  You will quickly notice the dog has stopped growling as he is most likely interested in the treats and no longer wishes you to leave.  This does not mean you are buddies yet, but it does mean you have taken the first step in assuring this growly dog that you mean him no harm.

Bentley continues to get closer as he feels safer.
Making friends with a growly dog will make the dog feel better as it will you!  We often hear, "he is slow to warm up to people,"  dogs often bark at strangers, however refrain from barking when they have had a chance to feel safe with this new person.

Consider using the treat and retreat approach to make your own fearful or shy dog feel safe with new guests.  If you know of a friend with a growly dog, take special treats and toss them when you arrive, you may be surprised how much better you both feel.

This may take minutes or weeks, but will help your dog feel safer each time he is faced with a stranger.

Because I know Bentley this handsome Boxer, I begin by tossing treats, progress to hand feeding then touch and treat.  Only allow people your dog knows to use this progression in a single session.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Feisty Fidos - Leash Lungers

Many of you have seen or owned a dog that is reactive or barks at other dogs when on a leash.  This behavior often gets a dog surrendered to a rescue group because it is very difficult to walk.  Unfortunately, many clients have said "I wish I had met you sooner, then I would not have given up my last dog." As someone who works with many rescue groups, this breaks my heart as I know many pet owners are not aware of the training we do with reactive dogs.  

Below is a video of Eva, a pet dog who was very reactive on a leash when she saw a strange dog.  After one session of our Feisty Fido class, she is much calmer when she sees a dog.



Everyone has a specific goal in mind for their dog.   Maybe it is to earn a Canine Good Citizen Certification, or walk past a dog on the street, or be able to attend a class with other dogs.  What ever your goal know that changing behavior does not happen overnight, but we at CBC have the tools to help you change your dogs behavior in a positive successful manner!

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Playtime on The Beaches

Waiting Patiently to run on the Beach.

Does your dog enjoy running along the beach, digging in the sand, chasing the birds and playing with other canine friends?  If so, GREAT, you have something your dog wants! This is a great opportunity for behavior training!  Before you let them off leash to dash in any direction, how about asking for a few behaviors first?  

Great Fun!!
Developing good emotional control takes practice, by incorporating training into your daily routine, your dog will learn to comply in a consistent fashion.

So why not ask your dog for a  simple "wait" in the car while you attach a leash, a "sit" once out of the car, how about 3 or 4 sets of sit/stay while you hold onto a long 15 foot leash in safe areas of the parking lot?  Ask for a few "waits" then call your dog "come" and reward!  When on the beach, ask your dog to "wait", remove the leash and say "go play"-- for many dogs this is more rewarding than food!!  

So use this awesome reward of freedom, to get your dog to comply to a few behaviors first!  With practice your dogs will wait patiently like the 3 above!


Monday, October 31, 2011

Outdoor Adventure Class - Rewarding to Dogs and Humans

Outdoor Adventure Class

What I love about this photo is that both of these dogs LOVE people!!  They frequently love to say hello to everyone they see but are using good emotional control here at Back Cove Trail!  As you can see both dog handlers are asking their dog to make a choice, the dogs have learned that when they comply a reward is coming!!  What reward?  What ever the handler chooses is rewarding to their particular dog.  Some dogs love play, affection, food, a good scratching, a special toy or even a good sniff in the grass can be rewarding to a particular dog!

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Rescue - Small Male Scottish Terrier

This handsome boy is a character, as he loves all dogs!  He adjusted to my home very quickly showing no fear about the new environment.  He is very friendly with all my dogs, is crate trained, comes when called and rubs on you like a cat.

He is sleeping in his crate and is happiest if he can see one of my dogs.  He has met 9 new dogs since I have had him and loves them all!  Walks well with a harness, did great with his bath and really loved the towel rubbing.

He needs to be reminded where to potty, but other than that he is a joy!

Let me know if you are interested in meeting this handsome little boy!

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Toys

Many of you have asked me about interactive toys to help keep your dog busy when left alone.

Below are some of the toys I use to create positive associations for many dogs in many different ways.  For example, when I leave I often say "Kong Time" and leave each dog with a stuffed toy. The sound of a delivery truck is often another "kong time" as I want my dogs to be excited not fearful when this sound occurs.

 If I am training a foster dog to use a crate, I only feed them using these toys, and, again, happily say "crate," and toss a yummy toy or two in the crate so the dog associates it with something good!

These are simply a few ideas to help enrich your dogs life.

Premier Tumble Ball, assorted Kongs, Everlasting Toys, Squirrel Dude, Planet Dog, Rip and Tug.
To get started be sure to make the toy easy for your dog to receive a reward, otherwise they will lose interest.  The balls are great for beginners using dry kibble mixed with a few treats.
For the experienced dog, pack the Kong with a variety of goodies!  For example, begin with a bit of peanut Butter, next add some raw meat or pieces of hotdog or cheese, followed by some kibble, dry treats, and repeat the process!  It is like a party every time as your dog works hard to get to his favorite goodie!  Be sure to use a cue like "kong time", your dog will begin to salivate rather than pant when you are leaving!

Thursday, October 20, 2011

New Classes

New Session of Classes begin tonight:

5:00 to 6:00 we have our Small dog Leash Lungers held at Tender Touch Veterinary Hospital.

Puppy Socialization Class also held at TTVH from 6:15 to 7:15.

Looking forward to helping our dogs become more balanced and happy!

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Day 4 - Behavior Adjustment Training -BAT

My favorite session so far!

Those of you who have met me, know I love to help the shy, fearful, and aggressive dog. While working as a dog handler for Grisha Stewart's BAT workshop, I now have new tools to use to help these insecure and reactive dogs. BAT looks at the function of growling, lunging, or fleeing and helps dogs learn socially acceptable behaviors that serve the same function.

Bat will build your dog's confidence's confidence by giving him a chance to control his environment through the use of his own natural calming signals. You will learn how to better understand your dogs triggers and help him learn to safely get along with people, dogs, children and other triggers. This program includes all positive reinforcement techniques and is completely non adversive!

As a supplemental training class for the reactive dog, look for class details this fall!

Saturday, October 15, 2011

Conference Day 3 -Canine Scent Classes

Scent work is an easy class that any dog can enjoy, all you need is your dog and his nose! Yes, I mean any dog, this is the perfect class for reactive dogs, shelter dogs, rescue dogs, dogs young and old can learn to use their nose and be rewarded for it!

This is a wonderful enrichment activity, is easy for both handler and dog, and exciting to watch!

Expect this class to be implemented this winter, perfect timing for some indoor fun!

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Conference Day 2 - Reactivity in Dogs

Impulse control, hyperactivity, reactivity and arousal are all topics discussed in today's symposium on "Living on the edge." If you have attended any of my reactive dog classes you would have heard me use these terms and how they effect your dogs emotional state.

Today's topics included many practical methods of incorporating daily routines and opportunities to help your dog practice desirable behaviors. We know that good training is always started at home! Daily practice at home with feeding, training, and play can improve a dogs impulse control and arousal habits. New behaviors and techniques for keeping your dogs arousal under threshold will be incorporated into our up coming classes.

Today's conference ended with an informational panel discussion including dog behavior specialists: Suzanne Clothier, Ian Dunbar, Trish King, Dr. Petra Mertens, Dr. Pamela Reid, and Pia Silvani. What a great source of caine knowledge here to discuss arousal and how it effects reactivity.

looking forward to tomorrow's sessions on K9

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Association of Pet Dog Trainers Conference day 1

While I miss by family and furry friends back home, I am thrilled to be apart of this years APDT Conference! Here are just a view of the speakers that have presented so far:
Karen Pryer, author Don't Shoot The Dog
Teoti Anderson, author of 4 canine training books.
Ian Dunbar, APDT founder and author of many books.
Gail Fisher, clicker expert and author The Thinking Dog.
Joshua Leeds, Studies Bioacoustics, the power of sound on humans and other species.
Sue Sternberg, a dog aggression expert and founder of CASA Community Animal Shelter Assn.

Wow! What a day, my head is bursting with new luring and shaping skills which I am excited to share with my clients! The uses of Positive Reinforcement techniques are being incorporated into zoos, veterinary medicine, shelters, even schools, businesses and homes can all benefit from positive reward based relationships.

Stay tuned for more as the week progresses!

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Socialization improves body language skills

Puff the samoyed and Lilly the springer
When Puff reached the toy first, Lilly politely looked away, avoiding any type of conflict.  This shows she has good manners and has no bullying behaviors with other dogs.  Puff also let other pups win the toys in class and played nicely when approached.

If a pup always wins, they get use to winning and may become rude about this particular behavior.  What will happen when your pup tries to take a toy or ball out of another dogs mouth?  Depending on the temperament of the other dog, your pup may get a reprimand.  

Teaching your pup good doggie skills requires plenty of positive socialization experiences, feedback on good impulse control, and interactions with other polite dogs.  

For a positive socialization experience, consider joining our Puppy Socialization Class at Tender Touch Veterinary Hospital.  Please check out our class schedule!




Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Alternate Behavior

Trainers often teach a dog to focus on their handler by using a "watch me" or "look at me" cue.  Once this is well conditioned and can be performed without distractions, we can teach the dog an "Auto watch."

Trainers use this behavior when desensitizing dogs to scary stimuli.  For example, maybe your dog barks at strangers, the mail person, or other dogs.  When we desensitize our dogs to things that scare them, we actually want our dog to "Look" at the scary stimuli and then look back at us for the reward, hence an "auto watch!"
Finn looks at the German Shepherd, then back at
 mom rather than his old behavior of barking!
For many dogs, even those who are "friendly" or enjoy the company of other dogs, walking past a strange dog or person while confined in place is extremely challenging and often stressful for dog and handler.  My goal is not only to help the owners teach their dog an incompatible behavior, something other than what the dog has chosen like barking, lunging or pulling, but also to change the emotional state of the dog.  These dogs often see a dog and immediately feel stressed, frustrated, anxious or aroused. We can change this first emotional response so the dog is able to control his emotions by feeling good when this stimuli is presented.

Overall changes that occur with training:
* Enhanced relationship between dog and owner
* Better understanding of your dogs body language
* Understanding thresholds
* Clear communication and expectations
* Duration in behavior
* Achieving better focus
* Greatly decreasing recovery time of the dog
* Providing owners with appropriate responses
* Increased confidence in the owner

If your dog has been called a "Feisty fido" or "Leash lunger" think about a training program using an alternate or incompatible behavior that works!  Check out my Class schedule for a training class that works!

Monday, September 26, 2011

Appreciate the Warning

Dewey understands the golden's "look" and avoids a bite!
I recently met a young man who has been bitten several times, with a level 1 and level 2 bite from his dog.  In each case the dog was sitting on the couch by his wife when he approached.  Each time the dog growled, he said "no" to the dog and sat down anyway, and yes he got bitten.

Consider each time now that the husband comes near the couch, the wife gets anxious, afraid her sweet loving pooch will bite at her husband.  Her anxiety only becomes apparent to the dog when that "man" comes near.  If his approach predicts mom being afraid, then he will be afraid also.  It is the dogs natural instinct to make himself feel safe, and if a growl or bite works then he will use it!

Knowing the dog loved cheese, I recommended dad approached the couch, make no eye contact with the dog, and only toss a small piece of cheese near him and walk away.  We did this repetition several times until we saw the dog was actually happy about the man approaching.  Next we had the man approach, sit down treat the dog and then leave.  Again with several repetitions, the wife began to relax and see that the dog could be happy about her husbands approach and presence as long as it predicted something good!

The Point of this article is to change the reason the dog is growling, rather than just telling him to "No!" We do not modify aggression with aggression anymore, at least Positive Reinforcement Trainers do not because we are educated on changing the emotions of the dog.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Pinch or Choke

Because September is Safety month, I wanted to talk a little bit about these controversial collars.
pinch collar

Do you know which one is actually more dangerous?  While the Pinch collar looks barbaric with its long spikes, it will not choke a dog to the point of death.  On the other hand, the old fashion choke collar is very dangerous and most anyone you talk to in the dog community will confirm this.  I am not advocating either, but want to clarify that one is seriously more dangerous than the other.

choke chain
Unfortunately, most dog enthusiasts have heard about or sadly experienced a tragedy involving a dog while wearing a choke collar.  Certainly no one plans for a dog to choke, however, due to the continued use of choke collars, tragedies do occur.  If you own a choke chain, please toss it out TODAY, before your best friend suffers an unexpected accident.

Not convinced?  These collars can easily get caught on crates, fences, wooden gates, bed frames, chairs, drawer handles, window cranks, dishwasher handles, car door handles, car locks, tree branches, roots, other dogs collars, and many more unexpected items.  So, please never put a choke collar around your dogs neck again.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Code Green!

While reading a book in the hospital waiting room last week, I heard these words spoken loudly over the speaker, CODE GREEN, CODE GREEN!  Startled, I immediately looked at the staff workers all busy behind the check-in counter.  Not one of them looked up, moved or even flinched.  It was as though they heard nothing.  Ok, if they are not worried, nor will I.  I took a deep breath and realized my heart was pounding having been startled, I soon relaxed and went back to my reading.  

What if your dog is the one to hear something scary and bark, and they move to the window or door and look back at you?  If you like this behavior, then great, get up and say?  "Who is hear?"  However if you know it is the neighbor that arrives home precisely the same time every day and you prefer your dog not tell you each day.  Then help him understand this by not reacting.  In fact, you can ignore her/him.

Even a look is rewarding, so just continue doing what you were, with no reaction.  Your dog will read your energy as calm and be calm also.  Unless, you have been rewarding this behavior for some time.  Then you will see your dog's behavior become more intense for a while as they are use to getting a response from you.  After a period of time, with you ignoring the alarm bark, your dog will give up and will no longer bark at this particular sound.  The term is called Extinction Burst, which means the dog will eventually give up if not receiving any reward or attention.

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

New Small Dog Leash Lungers Class

Our Small Dog Socialization class has been growing so I would like to enhance the format for each participant.  Many small dogs become reactive on the leash and are difficult to walk in the presence of an unfamiliar dog or people.  This may be the result of poor socialization, bullying behaviors, genetics, dominant aggression, fear aggression, positive punishment or other factors.

I would like to help your small dog learn to be non reactive when around scary stimuli such as strange dogs or people.  Using a Positive Association or "Click to Calm" approach, we can change the association your dog has to a particular stimuli.
Sophie wore a muzzle for safety
Have you met my Scottie, Sophie?  Anyone see her bark and lunge at dogs or people in the past?  Well, she was a Feisty Fido when I got her!  After completing several weeks in class with me or my daughter, she is now a different dog, even earning her Canine Good Citizen Certification this past Spring.  How about my old terrier Annie, she too was very dog reactive, but now helps other dogs with their greeting skills!

Sophie remaining calm while near people and dogs
This class will be held Thursday evenings 6:15, beginning Sept. 29, at Tender Touch Veterinary Hospital. To register please contact me!  Safety procedures will be given and followed each week upon arriving and leaving the training center.
Sophie earned her CGC in March 2011

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

When to stop training



I like to joke with my clients that my three dogs are over the age of 4, no more adolescents!  Does this make a difference?  Sure, but does it mean I am done training?  Not even close!

Behavior will continue to improve if you continue working with your adolescent dog, but it will definitely get worse if you don't. Both behavior and temperament will tend to stabilize, for better or worse, as your dog matures around his second birthday for small dogs, or third birthday for large dogs. But until then, if you don't keep on top of things, there can be precipitous and scary changes in your dog's temperament and manners. Even when your dog reaches maturity, you should always be on the alert for any unwanted behaviors or traits, which you must modify before they become hard-to-break habits.
Can you tell which dog is worried?  Note the black dog is looking away from the handler, ears and tail are down, back is a bit rounded with a wide mouth pant.

Especially if your dog is a bit anxious or fearful of certain stimuli such as other dogs, kids, people, bikes, or UPS trucks.  Creating positive association to these stimuli are a priority for many people with pups, but what if your dog hasn't seen a child up close in months or years?  Should you expect him to feel the same he did years ago?  I would not leave it to chance!  Many people are surprised by their adult dogs behavior, such as when they act shy, cower or bark at someone they use to have a positive relationship with.  Remember, temperaments and behaviors are always changing.  So, set your dog up for success and always help them feel safe and associate both new and old stimuli with a positive association.  This is a never ending process; you never stop training!

Monday, August 29, 2011

Walking Harness

Many clients ask me if they should use a collar or a harness on their dog.  In reality, a harness is much safer if it is properly fitted.  Many dogs can escape from a poor fitting harness and easily be in danger when near a street.  

Many dogs will adjust quickly to a harness, however, I recommend you show it to your dog while offering him a few yummy treats.  Put it on and quickly reward him with affection and praise. Remove the harness and repeat a few times before you head out for your first walk.

Many reactive or highly territorial dogs do not enjoy the confinement of the gentle leader but do very well in a well fitting harness.

I certainly prefer a harness with a buckle in the front of the chest or if the buckle is on the dogs back, look for one with a martingale strap as shown below.  Notice the martingale strap on the back, as it tightens around Diamonds body much like a martingale collar.This concept is great for dogs that may try to back out of the harness.  It is also self punishing as it tightens when the dog pulls and loosens when the dog slows.

Of all the harnesses I have tried, I recommend the No Pull Freedom Harness, from Wiggles, Wags and Whiskers shown here on Diamond.  You will notice that it is completely adjustable, has felt covered straps under the dogs legs and a martingale to prevent your dog from escaping.
The leash is included and connects to front and back loops for greater control when needed.

Friday, August 26, 2011

Relationships based on Motivation

I cannot tell you how many times I have asked my teenage daughter to finish her summer homework.  "Later" was the response I received many times.  I realized she needed motivation!   Knowing she would soon be asking for a new school outfit, I offered to take her shopping once her homework was complete.

Funny how the right motivation can get results.  Once I offered to take her school shopping, her project was completed in record time!

Threatening all kinds of negative punishment rarely works, often makes you feel horrible and can certainly make your child avoid you.

Motivation is contagious in relationships, if I do a favor for someone else, they are more likely to do one back.  Relationships both canine and human based on motivation and rewards has and always will be a primary focus for me -- because it is effective and it works!


Sunday, August 21, 2011

Friendly Signs

Have you ever seen your dog raise his paw when greeting a new dog?
Layla arriving at puppy socialization class.
How about the wagging tail and relaxed ears?  If you look closely you may also see a tongue flick as seen in this photo.  Layla a young boxer pup is greeting Cora with a look away, tongue flick, paw raise and while you do not see her cropped tail, her entire butt is wiggling!

A friendly dog will be moving about with lots of wiggles and bends in his body.  Soft averted eyes are harder to see, but are there when a friendly dog wants to assure another they mean no harm.  Note the brown and white pitt mix below greeting several new dogs with lots of good social skills.  She has made her intentions perfectly clear that she is friendly.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Outdoor Adventure Class Begins Today


Looking forward to Outdoor Adventure Class today at the Eastern Prom!  This class is about improving our dogs coping skills in different environments.  It is not easy for a dog to sit and stay or focus on his handler when exposed to many different distractions.  Using a reward based training method, we will set each dog up for success so confidence is gained not only in the dog, but in the owner as well!

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Do you need to dominate your dog?

Too many people believe you must dominate or be the Alpha dog in the home to co-exist happily with their companion pet.  You may have heard that in order to prevent your dog from becoming dominant that you had to: 1) always go through doorways first, 2) always eat before your dog, 3) never allow the dog on furniture where they might be elevated above you, 4) never allow the dog to sleep on your bed, 5) always punish your dog for stealing or chewing things that belong to you, 6) push your dog away when they jump up or paw at you, and 7) never let your dog walk in front of you.  You may think that you have to be ever vigilant and that you have to do whatever it takes to show your dog that you are the boss in order to prevent him from taking over your home and becoming disobedient and even possibly aggressive.  

I believe it is important to build a trusting relationship with our pets while helping them understand that when they comply, we make life really good for them, including helping them feel safe.  If a dog is successful in a behavior, it will be repeated, not because it is dominant but because it has learned the behavior is rewarding.  So it is important to establish a clear understanding in the dogs mind how to live in a humans world.  Not by dominating, scaring, or threatening, but by helping them cope with the humans and environment they live in.


I believe a lot of smart dogs learn to train their owners, again, not because they are dominating them but because we the humans Spoil them!!  I also believe it is never too late to improve the relationship with your pet by rewarding good behavior,  and therefore reinforcing good habits!


For more Positive Reinforcement tips, check out Canine Behavior Counseling on Facebook!



Do you need to dominate your dog?

Too many people believe you must dominate or be the Alpha dog in the home to co-exist happily with their companion pet.  You may have heard that in order to prevent your dog from becoming dominant that you had to: 1) always go through doorways first, 2) always eat before your dog, 3) never allow the dog on furniture where they might be elevated above you, 4) never allow the dog to sleep on your bed, 5) always punish your dog for stealing or chewing things that belong to you, 6) push your dog away when they jump up or paw at you, and 7) never let your dog walk in front of you.  You may think that you have to be ever vigilant and that you have to do whatever it takes to show your dog that you are the boss in order to prevent him from taking over your home and becoming disobedient and even possibly aggressive.  

I believe it is important to build a trusting relationship with our pets while helping them understand that when they comply, we make life really good for them, including helping them feel safe.  If a dog is successful in a behavior, it will be repeated, not because it is dominant but because it has learned the behavior is rewarding.  So it is important to establish a clear understanding in the dogs mind how to live in a humans world.  Not by dominating, scaring, or threatening, but by helping them cope with the humans and environment they live in.


I believe a lot of smart dogs learn to train their owners, again, not because they are dominating them but because we the humans Spoil them!!  I also believe it is never too late to improve the relationship with your pet by rewarding good behavior,  and therefore reinforcing good habits!


For more Positive Reinforcement tips, check out Canine Behavior Counseling on Facebook!



Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Separation Anxiety or Distress....which is it?

Because not all dogs that are left alone experience  
anxiety, animal behaviorists are beginning to use other terms  
including separation behaviors.

Separation Distress
Distress is simply an animal's inability to adapt to stress (or the  conditions that are causing stress). In humans or animals, the result  of distress is often demonstrated by poor coping skills that include inappropriate  
urinating or defecating (toilet-trained children who are experiencing  distress might wet the bed or wet their pants), making noise (dogs bark and whine while distressed children might cry), and destruction  or aggression.

In many situations, separation distress is a more accurate term than  
separation anxiety.  Some owners have even called their pups behavior Separation Fun. They can learn that when their owner is gone, they can counter surf, sleep on their owners bed, lounge on the couch, dig in the trash, relieve their bladder without anyone yelling at them.

Separation Behaviors
Some owners return home to discover toilet paper has been dragged from  
the bathroom all through the house and underwear is now strewn about  
the living room. A tornado went through the house? No, the dog was at  
it again. 
The idea that some dogs get bored and start a party when their owners  
are gone is controversial. What we do know is that something happens, as  
toilet paper is all around the house, shoes are chewed, and perhaps the  
dog urinated on the bed. These occurrences can all be accurately  
referred to as separation behaviors.


So before you implement a major training program, perhaps you should
determine if your dog is truly anxious or simply bored.  What we do know is that
punishment often creates more bad behaviors.


Helping dogs cope while being left alone is a process, but one that will save your
furniture and earn you freedom for the life of your dog!

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Will your puppy be well balanced?

Overprotecting your puppy from the world may very well back fire on you.  While more and more Puppy owners are learning the importance of early Socialization, I wonder if they understand the critical importance.

I work with many aggressive dogs and nearly all of them have a lack of coping skills.  In Puppy Socialization Classes we allow our pups to explore many different sights, sounds, surfaces and different play styles with a variety of other puppies.  It is critical that our young pups learn to Rebound, from scary situations.  It is ok for your pup to bite another puppy too hard and get a reprimand from that pup.  It is critically important for your pup to understand that situations may be scary or even uncomfortable, but 1. they are temporary and 2. that he can control the consequences with good choices.

UCLA Psychiatrist Paul Bohn makes the same case for raising a well balanced child.  He states that if a young boy falls and scrapes his knees while in a race, it is important for the child to be able to pick himself up, understand what happened and know that the pain and discomfort is temporary. The frustration and disappointment of losing the race will help him recover from discomfort and disappointment later in life.

As a parent, these experiences are difficult to watch, yet are necessary for our children to be able to cope in todays environment.  Similarly, our young puppies need to learn to cope from various situations before they reach 6 months.  Our puppies Critical period is only up to 16 weeks after that they will naturally become more cautious and fearful.  So help your puppy be well balanced and find a Socialization Class to set the framework for your puppy to recover from many situations throughout his or her life.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Using Your Voice as a Reward

The one area I believe we as humans confuse our dogs, is on the use of our voice to reward our dogs behavior.  I find myself repeatedly asking dog handlers to use their voice as a reward so their dog knows they have done something right.  I firmly believe, if you reward a behavior when it is occurring, you will get more of that behavior!

When I see a dog avoiding a handlers face, it is often because the person is talking in a firm or scolding tone to their dog.  How is the dog to know when he is doing something correct or not if we use the same pitch all the time?  Many dogs do not comply with their owners and I believe it is because the dog is confused, he simply does not know how to please his handler.  If you are struggling with your dogs behavior in any way, have someone film you or role play and see for yourself if you know what you are rewarding.
I am not saying yell or drop your tone to scare your dog, simply raise your pitch with a simple and happy "yes, good dog" when he  is doing something you like.  Watch and see if he does not continue the behavior, I'll bet a box of liver treats he will!

Timing is so important, I am always smiling at Pablo when he looks at me so he looks at me all the time.  If you ask your dog to do a behavior, smile and reward when he is looking at you, change your tone the instant your dog looks at you, "Yes, good dog!"  Try it, you will like it because it works!

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Outdoor Feisty Fido Class Today

Looking forward to our positive classes today held at the Eastern Prom.

Hope some of our Alumni will be able to join us for the Feisty Fido class as we need good distraction dogs!  For many rescue dogs who have spent months or years practicing this unwanted reactive behavior, learning to not be reactive on the leash, in the car and yard may take months of practice.  But once they have it, your relationship will be better then ever!

Desensitizing our dogs and helping them feel safe is such a great feeling, congratulations to our many Alumni and Graduates as they continue to make outstanding progress!

Sunday, July 3, 2011

4th of July Fireworks

While you are planning your fun Independence Day, please remember to think about helping your dog feel safe, here are a few tips to keep your dog from feeling anxious.


Loud noises from fireworks can be frightening to your pets, as they do not know what they are.  So protect your pet and help them get through this day with these tips:
  1. Keep Them Home. Don't bring pets to fireworks displays. And never leave your pet unattended in a car.
  2. Don't Leave Them Outside Alone. Your pet could get lost or injured if he panics and tries to escape from your yard.
  3. Create a Safe Zone in Your Home. Keep your pet in a place familiar and comfortable. A quiet inside room might be best. Make sure they have access to water. You can leave a radio playing at a bit above normal volume to keep him company. Also be sure to remove any unsafe items your pet may chew if she gets frightened.
  4. Close all Doggie Doors. Keep pet doors and fence gates locked this weekend.
  5. Be Sure Your Pet Has ID. Make sure your pet has a collar and ID tag with up to date information. An ID tag will help get you reunited even if your pet is microchipped.
  6. Ask Your Vet. and Behaviorist. Together they can put your pet on a plan to avoid anxiety, which is a serious condition for pets.
  7. Don't Give Them Leftover Bones, Human Cookies or Ice Cream. Cooked bones are easily split and can cause serious injury to pets. Also be aware of leftovers your guests may give your pet.  
Enjoy the day!

Friday, June 24, 2011

Mr. Dudley

Dudley is my newest foster pup, at 2 yrs old he is a handsome Scottish Terrier.  With a sweet disposition, a true love to play fetch, house broken, crate trained, good with dogs and children.

He arrived last week for an evaluation and within minutes of arrival was playing fetch with a ball he had brought with him.  Honestly, the transition period was easy for him, it is clear he has enjoyed a good life so far and is well socialized to environments, people and dogs.

I did have to modify a bit of Dudley's behavior this week.  When he jumped on the couch and proceeded to drop his ball in my lap while I was reading the paper and drinking my coffee.  I ignored him, he backed up and barked at me (as if to say, hey lady you are suppose to throw it!).   I picked up the ball and rolled it to my scottie, Sophie who gladly grabbed and shook it.  As it rolled away from her, Dudley grabbed the ball and you guessed it, again dropped it in my lap and barked.  I again ignored him and rolled the ball to Sophie who happily chased it.  Within a minute Dudley rushed up to the couch with his ball in his mouth, he hesitated, laid down on the floor and played with his ball all by himself.   He is a smart boy!

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Is Snoopy loving this?

Peanuts by Charles Schulz

Peanuts




I want to thank Don Hanson, BFRP, CDBC, CPDT-KA  for sharing this                cartoon. It shows exactly what NOT to do with your pup.  As you can see             Snoopy does not like to be approached quickly, patted without warning, or         hugged. Our perception of what our dogs love is not the same as what we                love, something to think about.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Repeating Cues

Sadie is in a stay at Back Cove
What are we actually doing when we repeat a cue/command to a dog?  If you think about it, we are desensitizing the dog to any meaning the word has.  I recommend you ask your dog two times, then do something different if he did not comply, like lure with a treat, change your cue and pitch, or use a long line to follow through.  Some behaviors are harder for some dogs, so please take into account what your dog is doing and how much enjoyment is he getting out of it.

I suppose you could argue that yelling a repeated command at a dog is sort of like "nagging" someone.  If so, then the reward is earned when you stop yelling or adding physical pressure toward the dog.  What if the dog does not comply?  You just rewarded him for not doing anything.  So, if you do not think your dog will "come" from the neighbors yard, then do not call him unless you have his favorite wubba, tug toy or yummy cheese.  We know rewarding good behavior will produce more of that behavior.  Try it, you will like it and so will your dog.

When should you teach the verbal cue?  First teach the behavior using a clicker, lure, shaping or capturing. After the dog is performing the behavior using a hand signal 5 out of 6 times, then you can add the verbal cue just before the hand signal.  The Cue predicts the hand signal which elicits the behavior, then reward to reinforce the correct behavior and let your dog know how awesome he/she is!

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

How best to socialize your new Puppy



 Robert K. Anderson DVM, Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Preventive Medicine and Diplomate of American College of Veterinary Behaviorists has provided us with the best details on how to Socialize your new puppy!



Puppies begin learning at birth and their brains appear to be particularly responsive to learning and retaining experiences that are encountered during the first 13 to 16 weeks after birth [Dr. Anderson is saying that the prime time for puppy socialization stops somewhere between 13 and 16 weeks, although more socialization occurs after that time]. This means that breeders, new puppy owners, veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists have a responsibility to assist in providing these learning/socialization experiences with other puppies/dogs, with children/adults and with various environmental situations during this optimal period from birth to 16 weeks.


Many veterinarians are making this early socialization and learning program part of a total wellness plan for breeders and new owners of puppies during the first 16 weeks of a puppy’s life -- the first 7-8 weeks with the breeder and the next 8 weeks with the new owners. This socialization program should enroll puppies from 8 to 12 weeks of age as a key part of any preventive medicine program to improve the bond between pets and their people and keep dogs as valued members of the family for 12 to 18 years.


For additional information on Proper Socialization and Vaccinations, copy the link below:


www.diamondsintheruff.com/RKanderson.html