My Dog Bites

Have you ever been told "YOUR DOG JUST BIT ME"?  In all honesty,  I believe the owner of the dog that bites feels much worse than the person who has been bitten and is yelling.  I am not talking about a bite that requires stitches, but a level one bruise with the front teeth.  I understand the yelling is to make the owner feel bad, but trust me, the owner is already upset and wondering if they are going to be able to keep their beloved furry friend with those sweet eyes.

Relaxing with guests in the house

When we choose to own a dog that we fear may bite someone, we need to first manage our dog so he cannot get himself into trouble.  But, many dogs get worse when only management is used.  For example, every time a guest arrives, Fido gets abandoned to the back bedroom, can you imagine being put in a room with a Grizzly Bear right on the other side of the door?  How would you feel?   Sure, when you open the door Fido will run through the house to see if the scary strangers are anywhere lurking, just to make sure he is safe and will not be ambushed and eaten! 

How sad is it that this Fido lives in real fear of the unknown stranger?  While many dogs can be socialized later in life with people and kids, there are some who just do not seem to improve.  Maybe your training is going too fast for the dog to cope, maybe you are changing the stimuli too often, maybe you are changing the environment too often, maybe your dog does not know how to relax, maybe he does not see you as his protector, maybe he has protected himself before using a snap and it worked. Maybe he is becoming more sensitized then desensitized.

Have you considered this scenario?  A mother dog is about to give birth, she is stressed and confined but hears scary noises nearby so she barks to warn off any intruders. Studies suggest her pups may feel her stress even before she gives birth.  Imagine the pups that are born in an empty lot, under a car, and all they hear for hours upon hours is their mother barking in frantic attempts to keep the humans away from coming near her or her litter.   These pups are more likely to grow up believing humans are something to be feared because their mother said so and she knows best.

Owning a dog who greets every new person in a defensive manner with a low growl, rapid barking, or lunging and snapping is certainly not for everyone.  But what if you have fallen for those sweet eyes already? Using management that feels good to the dog, counter conditioning in a positive way,  teaching our dogs to relax on cue, learning to understand your dogs body language when he needs space and talking to your vet about medication are all tools we use to help our dogs cope and stay safe. Remember: a dog that feels safe and less threatened, is also less defensive and less likely to bite!

Now ask yourself, would YOU go sky diving, bungee jumping, climb Mt. Everest, become a vegetarian,  give a speech on the fiscal cliff?  Why not?  Personally, I have my own fears like swimming in the ocean, I am terrified of drowning.  Yet, we push our dogs to do things that terrify them because we have some fantasy that our dogs must be perfect.  We are not and neither are they, so helping them feel safe and cope with their fears is better than thinking we need to change who they are.

Rescuing a Worried Dog

My little black foster scottie is making great progress in my home.  While he was a door dasher when he arrived, he has learned to wait and ask permission to go outside.  He has also learned to sit for affection, food or a treat.  I find it hard to believe when I work with an older dog that does not know how to sit when asked.  At six, this boy seems to love other dogs and is happy to be at someone's side.  He is learning the rules of tug, to lie down, and walk on a leash.  He is already good at riding in the car and just waits patiently in my seat while I run errands.

His biggest improvement is that he has warmed up to my husband and son which is really rewarding to see, as he seemed very worried about men when he arrived.   Because I have seem many men pet this little fearful dog with no more growling, I believe he was worried about "the" man he lived with, not all men.  This has become apparent over time and I am so thankful I took the time to ask him to show me what he was capable of.  He has made such progress in the last 2 weeks, I am confident I will find him the right home.

Show Me

While many of us this week have been  hugging  and  holding our children and grand children tighter as a result of the horrible shootings in Newtown CT., many of us have also sought to hold and love our pets.  Our desire to keep all those we love feeling safer has increased dramatically in light of the recent tragedy among the young and innocent.

stiff response to touch

Yet, when I reach to comfort my new 6 year old foster dog he growls and moves away from me. My desire to befriend and offer safety to this frightened dog is way more than he can handle at this point.  The more I try, the more he withdraws.

A new approach is clearly needed to earn the trust of with this little guy, so based on the many insights shared by Karen Pryer, I will play a series of "show me" games.  This is a game many new horse owners play when they buy or ride a new horse, if I do this what will you do?  Applying pressure with your hand or leg on different parts of a horse should be met with a behavior from the animal, hence, the relationship begins.

Knowing that petting this dog's back, would earn a "growl" verbal response as well as a stiffening of his body, I tried the back of my hand on his side for about 4 seconds then stopped.  What I got this time was a look in my direction and a bit of a lean into my hand.  So I continued to rub his side with the back of my hand and stop, allowing him to walk away or ask for more. This went on for 10 minutes at which point I needed to move myself as my back was ailing me.  I should also mention that in this time, I noticed his eyes soften, his ears seemed floppy, his breathing slowed, and he licked his lips multiple times and at one point laid his head on my leg.  I was thrilled!  I slowly got up and moved away, happily knowing he was wanting more of this friendship to continue. 

With so much uncertainty in our world, it is reassuring to give comfort and safety to an uncertain or defensive person or pet, even if for just a brief time.  Knowing when to reach out and when to just be present is a fine line, one that is always changing but certainly always rewarding.

Learning How to Cope without Frustration

I find myself saying this to many clients, "your dog is barking because he is frustrated."  Many young pups and adolescent dogs become spoiled and then frustrated when they are not able to get to something or someone all the time.  You might think we could be discussing children, this emotion is very similar and difficult not to reward.

This behavior is apparent in many dog training classes, when an owner is playing with her dog using a toy, another dog will bark at them as if to say "I want that toy or I want to play too".  Motivating your dog to focus on you is a good place to start while in your own home where there are no distractions.

Leash Frustration

What about when a new dog enters the room?  Many dogs will bark and pull towards the new dog as if to say "I want to say hello."  If during the first 5 months of your puppies life you always let him pull you to new dogs you encounter, then your dog will be incredibly frustrated when you decide it is not a good idea to let him drag you around.  When a behavior has been rewarded repeatedly, then the reward is removed for the same behavior, frustration will certainly follow.

Picture a puppy that jumps on his owner then sits and is reward multiple times in his first few months of life.  When the puppy is about 45 lbs and is no longer rewarded for this jumping, the puppy will often jump higher or with more force, if this intense jumping does not work, then barking usually follows.  These puppies do not understand why their behavior suddenly is not working?  "I always get my owners attention by jumping and then get a cookie for sitting!"

Frustration enters the picture when punishment is applied or when he finds himself in a no win situation.  Asking any alternative behavior and rewarding it is so much better than just saying "no" which only increases the frustration.    Dogs can learn to cope with change and avoid frustration if they are rewarded for another behavior.

Helping your dog learn to live in a human world without becoming frustrated is a process, one that should begin the day you bring him home!

Puppy Play

Baden gaining confidence in play.

While many of us watch dogs play, we often wonder if the dogs are having as much fun as we think.

I believe it is important that both dogs are chasing, being chased and sharing time on top equally.  If not, stepping in and creating pauses in the play will be beneficial to the less experienced dog.

When a play session is one sided, meaning one dog is constantly on top of the other, this is not equal play.  While you may not hear any growling, one dog may just be coping and not enjoying the play.

Try taking the collar or harness of the dog on top and gently pull him away.  Now, see what happens?  Does the dog on the bottom run away in need of a break?  Does he lunge or run back to the dog on top as if to say "come on, let's play"!  This simple test will give you confirmation that everyone is feeling okay about the interaction.

Baden a young pup playing with Pablo

Interrupting the play with short pauses will allow the dogs to lower their arousal and have a brief conversation about their intentions.  Watch as they look at each other or away, kiss faces, move closer or farther away.

In the photo to the right, Brady the 5 month old pup was a bit worried to play with a bigger adult dog.  Pablo began to "handicap" himself getting lower and lower to encourage Baden to play with him.  I asked Pablo to take many breaks as I could tell his type of play was a bit over whelming for Baden.

Before long these two were in constant motion and I was reassured each time I removed either dog, the other one came at us wanting more.  Knowing the play was fun for both dogs was a win win!

Canine Body Language Seminar

Mia greeting me with her back for safety.

Thank you to everyone who attended our Canine Body Language Seminar held at Poetic Gold Farm in Falmouth this past Sunday!  I believe, from all the positive feedback I have received, we accomplished our goal of helping everyone see that our dogs really do speak with their body movements.  When we take time to observe our dogs stance, their weight distribution, what their ears, eyes, tail, mouth, brows and tongue,  are doing as well as their over all body firmness, we can learn a great deal about our dogs emotional state.  With just a bit of practice we can understand what our dog is feeling given the situation they are in and how to help them if they are fearful or stressed.  As you can see in the above photo, Mia was not comfortable greeting me for the first time facing me, instead, each time turned and gave me her back, with ears down and back, tongue flicking up and out.  She clearly has a bit of hesitation when greeting someone new, but she did quickly warm up and roll on the ground in a relaxed goofy manner.

We certainly all agreed that when it comes to a dog greeting a strange person or new dog, the dog always has an opinion.  Rather than asking "can our dogs meet", we should all be asking "do our dog's want to meet" the strange dog or person.

Pablo is fearful of people and has begun to ground sniff.

Knowing how your dog is feeling in different situations will help you set him up for success.  Note in this photo, Pablo is sniffing the ground, he is uncomfortable with all the humans looking at him and has resorted to ground sniffing as it is comforting to him.  Knowing he was stressed I had my daughter play a game of "find it",  he happily ate the treats and kept a safe distance from the observers.

Bella is avoiding Pablo by sniffing in the grass.

As you can see from this photo taken a few weeks earlier, these two dogs having just met are not comfortable entering each other's space and therefore are demonstrating some avoidance.  Note Bella sniffing the grass and Pablo has a high tail and fairly stiff gate. This is the dogs way of keeping themselves safe, as neither dog invited the other dog into a friendly greeting, rather are clearly ignoring each other.

Bella greeting Buddy in a soft manner.

Here, you can clearly see how floppy Bella's body is in greeting Buddy.  Buddy began inviting her into his space by getting low and play bowing numerous times just after walking together for about 20 minutes. Their body's became soft, tails flat, joints soft with lots of movement, eyes were soft with no direct staring.   These two dogs played very well in a 50-50 manner having just met 30 minutes ago.

In summary, keep in mind that your dog will have an opinion about what he wants or needs to feel safe when faced with a new person, dog or environment.  Take it slow,  and practice understanding your dog when he is happy and relaxed and also when he is stressed or anxious.  Knowing how your dog is feeling will help you understand how to help him through situations when he needs you most!

Dog Bites Mail Carrier

The human canine bond is incredibly special, and as canine lovers we bend all the rules to keep our own dog safe and out of trouble.  However, sometimes our dogs use their Hind Brain which controls their reactive, reflexive and poor impulse control which can get them into trouble.  If your dog is a thinking dog he is using his Front Brain more often and is more responsive, more conscious and has better impulse control.

Do you really know who your dog is?

Starting pups in classes creates a thinking dog.

If today, you opened your front door and are startled to see the mail carrier, will your dog bark, lunge, attack or wiggle?  Do you know why he behaves this way?  Are you comfortable helping him behave differently?

Helping your dog be a thinking dog can be a real lifestyle change.  You can start by washing your dogs bowl and putting it in storage.  Hand feeding your dog his meals as rewards for good behavior each day for behaviors both in and outside the home will help your dog be thinking more often.  Enroll your dog in private training lessons, basic obedience, rally, agility or tracking class to help him become a thinking dog rather than a reactive dog.  If you are not sure what your dog can handle, get a professional evaluation to set you and your dog up for success.  Helping your dog see a stimuli, including the mail carrier and think before he reacts is as rewarding for you as it is the dog.

Setting your dog up for success and helping him be a thinking dog instead of a reacting dog takes patience, good timing and daily practice.  When you see your dog go through a "switch over" and begin using his thinking skills when he sees certain stimuli, then you will know who your dog is becoming!

Relationships

How connected are you to the ones you live with?  How important is the quality of those connections?

I am overwhelmed by the intense and loyal connections I have recently witnessed between human and pet.  The true connection and bond that exists is not something to be embarrassed about but rather discussed and shared.  It is those of us that look deep into our pets eyes, and truly understand that they need us and we need them, that are truly connected with our animals.

Understanding that a pet which is growling or snapping is asking for help.  They are often overwhelmed, over aroused or incredibly worried and doing only what they know that works for them.

Those of us who own and love a pet that loves only us, knows a true connection and will go to great lengths to keep them safe.  This connection is highly important, treasured and incredibly special.

Soft Mouth

I often visit families with a puppy that is biting much too hard.  Puppies use their mouths to play, explore, taste and chew, so it is important that we teach them to use a soft mouth when they touch our human skin.  Giving your puppy feedback is essential, so tell your puppy when it hurts, "ouch!", get up and walk away slowly.  Return and softly handle your pup, when his mouth is soft, reward him with verbal calm praise.  Too much excitement can encourage the pup to play harder.

How about an older dog, can you teach an older dog a soft mouth? Absolutely!  For example, hold the treat or even kibble under your thumb and offer it to your dog, if you feel teeth, just wait, when your dog licks the treat, release it as a reward.  Repeat several times, rewarding for a soft mouth and not rewarding when you feel teeth.

Remy came to us as a rescue with a hard mouth, he learned to be gentle and also drop the toy for us to toss it again. Here he is playing a game of tug, using good manners!

Allowing your pup to play with other pups in a socialization class is a great way to teach a soft mouth.  Notice that I said play with other pups, not play with two and three year old adolescent dogs at the dog park as their mouths are unknown and can teach your pup a much harder mouth.

Playing tug is a great way to teach a puppy a soft mouth, if you feel teeth during play, "Ouch!", drop the toy and leave the room.  Return and again reward with calm play as your dog learns the rules of the game!  Often saying "take it" "tug" and "leave it".  These are the basic rules of tug and are a great way to tach a puppy a soft mouth.

Bouncy Bella

Bella is my current foster dog from Almost Home Rescue.  Bella is a bouncy 1 year old boxer mix puppy that loves, loves, loves her humans and is good with good dogs.  She came to us with little behavior training, but is making great progress!  She is up to date on her shots and learning to live in a home with 3 other dogs and plenty of human interaction which she loves!  She also loves to play fetch and will play for hours.

Bella is learning to walk nicely on a leash, she can also sit, down, shake, and stay.   She happily goes into her crate to sleep and enjoys running around the back yard and napping in the sun.

She is making many friends in her new foster home!  To the left she is watching her scottie house mate dig for a chipmunk in the rock pile and wanting to go join in.

Below she is rubbing in the grass during her morning walk with friends.

Numbers Matters

Is it possible for a dog to be perfectly well behaved in a home with 5 dogs, yet be aggressive to his new house mate?  What about a dog that comes from a hoarding situation, is there any chance this dog could be dog aggressive?  One would think that a dog which lived with cats before would be fine in a new home with cats.  Not always.

Size does not matter.

We know that many dogs will be on their best behavior when greeting a larger pack of humans, dogs or even cats.  However, this same dog may be much more pushy or aggressive if greeting just one member of a pack.

Many dogs love playing with other dogs, yet some dogs can only play in small groups or even with only one other dog at a time.   If a litter is made of one or 2 pups, then these pups may not enjoy playing in a group as it is something they have never experienced.

Remember the environment plays a huge role in shaping our pups behavior. And, yes, the number of members in a home does matter.

Many dogs come out of homes in which they co-existed with many other species just fine. This does not make them love this species.  Too often I hear about an adopted dog that was "thriving in a home with multiple cats, only to be terrorizing the cat in his new home."  Numbers matters and being a bully can be fun -- especially when he's no longer  out-numbered!

I recently walked a small Scottie through a local park that was full of large sea gulls.  This dog would normally bark and lunge at both cats and squirrels, however upon seeing a large colony of birds on the bank of the pond, this Scottie turned away and pulled on the leash in the opposite direction.  I was surprised at first, but then quickly realized we were clearly out numbered!

As an owner, especially of a newly adopted dog or one who has recently moved to a new location or environment, be aware of the numbers! They matter!

Back to School!

September is here and the kids have gone back to school to begin a new year of learning!

Vacations have come and gone, colleges have been visited, common applications have been started, the pantry is restocked with healthy foods and the sports schedule is on the refrigerator.  For me, it is a time to return my full focus on the thing I enjoy the most, behavior modification!

Transitions take time, households are bustling, emotions may be heightened, and new routines are forming.  Just like children, our dogs are in transition too which may include some setbacks in behavior due to these changes.

Stress effects our dogs like it does us, potty accidents, whining, barking, chewing and over the top greetings are all common setbacks that may occur as kids head back to school.

What can you do?  Be calm, patient and understand that your pup is not doing anything to be spiteful.  The fact is that many dogs do not do well with change, dogs do best when their lives are predictable, the unknown may be scary to them.  Quickly establish your new routine, and help your dog know that you will return, hire a dog walker to let him out when you will be gone long hours, exercise him in the morning, feed him out of an interactive toys mixed with yummy treats that roll around and are fun.  If your dog is barking when you are gone, he is clearly stressed and not simply trying to wake up the neighbors.

When are they coming home!

Be sure your dog has a crate or room in your home where he feels really good, feed him and play with him there.  When you leave, toss him his interactive toy like a kong, everlasting fire hydrant or any toy stuffed with goodies and do not say a word that predicts you leaving finally, please do not look him in the eye as you close the door.

If your dog is having a set back during this time of year, he is most likely stressed, so think about how he might be feeling during this transition and what simple steps you can do to help him!

Happy Fall!     Judy

Can The Dogs Meet?

As a dog owner you must here this question once in a while, can they meet?  The bigger question is do they want to meet?

I highly recommend you watch both dogs body language for this answer.  Many dogs are friendly however there are also many dogs who have not had good experiences or maybe no experience with strange dogs entering their personal space.   Yes, your dog has a personal bubble and may or may not want strangers in it.

When two dogs see each other, watch your dogs body language as well as the other dogs.  This may take 5 or more minutes as you and the other owner have your own greeting while remaining 10 feet apart.  If your dog is turning his back to the new dog, then he is saying, no thanks.  If your dog is looking away from the other dog, yawning, sniffing the ground, scratching, hiding between your legs, then you know your dog is not interested in this greeting.  If you proceed with the greeting, your dog will most likely growl as if to clarify "not interested!"

On the other hand, if both dogs are play bowing, getting low to the ground or trying to crawl to each other then you know you have two dogs who are both interested in greeting or playing.  Again, the slower greeting you have the better success you will have.

So, my suggesting is to not ask the owner anymore, but to ask your dog how he feels about the situation.

This sweet black dog below is encouraging the smaller puppy to engage in play, this greeting took several minutes before both dogs were jumping around in lovely, bouncy play.

This handsome yellow lab is not interested in visiting with the other dogs in class, he continues to have a wide mouth pant and looks away from the other dogs.  While many of us social beings would love for our dogs to love every dog they meet, the reality is we need to ask our dogs what they want in order to set them up for success.

Stress Free Playgroups

When introducing new dogs, you often only have one chance to make the best first impression.  This first impression is critical to the future success of a positive relationship between the two dogs.  What if you are meeting an entire group?

I believe there are several things you can do to set your doggie playgroup up for success before you remove the leash.  When my Outdoor Adventure Canines come together for some off leash play, we always take time to do several pass by's with each dog, so they can exchange greetings from a safe distance. 

Geting information about each other

Puff, the handsome Samoyed above, calmly walks around the group, somewhat focused on his handler but also taking a few glances at the playmates near by. Harry, Lily, Caliber, Annie, Denver, Heidi, Sara, Topper, Sushi and Brady each take a look at the dog approaching.  Within this group, we noticed various calming signals from the dogs that were stationary.  Such as looking away, licking lips, blinking, sniffing the ground, yawning, sitting or even laying down.  After giving each dog a chance to walk through the group and get some information, we were ready to do some parallel walking together.

After parallel walking and playing follow the leader I could see each dog becoming more relaxed with their surroundings and their new pack.  

Brady the Scottish Terrier LOVED the water!

Once in the woods, we allowed the dogs off leash for some running, romping and playing.  While our focus was on reinforcing our recall, I was completely enjoying the relationships that developed as a result of a successful introduction.

Brady, the Scottie, was crazy about the water, jumping in and swimming with little hesitation.   What a treat to see him so happy!

Pairing up for a game of chase

Puff quickly realized that Caliber is a playful pup and engaged in a game of chase.  Lily the springer dashed in and out of the water sometimes following Brady and sometimes chasing Puff.  Harry and Annie, the adult dogs of the group watched from the bridge as the adolescent dogs played using all nice communication skills!  

Topper and Caliber taking a break

First impressions are critical!  Teaching our dogs how to greet calmly sets them up for success, and taking time to build positive relationships is simply joyful! 

A Scientific Approach

I realize most of us grew up with a dog or new a friend that had a dog.  I often had six or more dogs running around our horse farm as word spread that my mom worked in rescue.  Many different breeds past through my home, much like they do today.  While I currently own 3 dogs, I always have a foster dog or two.

However, growing up with dogs does not make me an expert in dog behavior.  The truth is most of what I thought I knew was very skewed into what I wanted to believe.  Only when I began serious, full-time study and work in the practice of canine behavior, and gained experience working with hundreds of dogs and their owners, did I become an effective trainer.

3 Territorial dogs in training

The fact is, that unless you study canine body language, follow current research, work closely with veterinarians, are open to the fact that a thorough history is essential to your success, you may be making matters worse.  If a doctor treats a patient for arthritis when they actually have a torn tendon, this patient will not get better.  Similarly, if you treat a dog for dominant aggression when he is actually territorial aggressive you will not have success.

I recently met a lady who had just put her chocolate labrador to sleep for aggression. When I asked her if she had tried some behavior modification, she replied "yes, we have spent 6 months with a trainer."  When I asked her if her dog had made any progress, she replied "well, he had some good days, but he was actually getting worse, that is why we had to euthanize him."

Through my experience I know that when dog training is based on a scientific approach it is much much more effective.  One dog is not a scientific experiment, so while your neighbors, family and friends are all well meaning, please consider that their knowledge is limited.

If something is not working then consider the fact that the history or diagnosis may be incorrect.

Teaching Your Dog Behaviors

Telling your dog he did something right and rewarding his behavior will help your dog know what it is you want from him.  Saying "yes" or marking the exact behavior with a clicker then following with a reward will help your dog learn faster.  

In this video, I am using a clicker to mark many different behaviors from my dog Pablo.  Once I have him performing the behavior reliably, then I put a cue word to it so I am able to ask for the behavior.

Many of these tricks took a series of sessions to teach and you will see some are still a work in progress!  The key is to make it fun for your dog!

Timing and repetition are very important as you want to click or say "yes" just as the behavior happens!  Practice several repetitions in a row so your dog understands what it is you are rewarding.  Practice using your dogs meal rather than feeding him out of a bowl, you will be amazed how smart your dog is!!

Nail Trimming can be Pleasant

Many owners take their dogs to the groomer or vet simply to have their nails trimmed.  If you have a little time to work with your dog, you might find that trimming your dogs nails can be easy and even an enjoyable event for you and your dog.

In this video, I am desensitizing Pablo to having his nails trimmed.  Like many dogs, he does not enjoy this, however he tolerates it because it predicts him getting food, which he loves!

Note how Pablo begins to offer me his paw as the trim actually predicts his reward coming.

Do you remember going to the dentist as a child?  Who did not stare at the Treasure Chest and wonder what new toys might be inside!  This reward of getting to pick a toy was all I could think about!  Hence it made the entire process of holding my mouth open so the dentist could poke around bearable for me!

It is helpful to go at your dogs pace and be consistent.  Always begin each session the same, tap, treat, tap, treat, trim, treat, and so on.  Progressing to fast will only make your dog more anxious as the unknown is scary and the known is safer.

Desensitizing or Sensitizing

When we change a dogs association, we often discuss the "how to's" of desensitizing the dog to a stimuli (stranger, noise, moving cars, bikes, children ect.)  If your steps of desensitizing are not working you must consider the fact that you may actually be sensitizing your dog or increasing arousal and anxiety rather than decreasing them.

Sara playing "find it" at the park

Sara, a sweet beagle mix in my Outdoor Adventure Class is fearful of new environments and will often shake and not take treats.  Using a series of games and food she enjoys like "find it", we are helping desensitize her to new places.

Taking a dog that is fearful of cars and tying him to a street sign would most likely increase the dogs fear and arousal or sensitize him to the sight and sound of cars.  After this type of training, the dog would be more likely to bark at the simple sound of a car.

However, if you stay a distance from the street where the dog is not yet aroused and play his favorite game of tug, find it, or fetch, you may find that the dog seems unaware of the cars going by.  I have used play to desensitize many dogs to their fears. This type of desensitization helps the dog associate a happy, playful emotional state when near loud or fast moving cars.

Puppy Leash Training

I am often asked how to teach a new puppy not to pull on the leash.   Keep in mind that your puppy has spend his/her entire life running freely any time his feet were on the ground. 

leash manners takes practice, its that simple.

The owners perception of walking their new puppy is often frustrating for both pup and owner as he/she pulls every which way and the walk often turns into chaos. Even with high value treats the puppy may ignore his/her owner.  Walking is often no fun for the human as their new puppy can't seem to stay on one side nor can he/she keep her nose off the ground.  This often reduces the time spent on leash and the owner finds ways to exercise their new puppy off leash as it is simply easier.  However, this only reinforces your puppy bolting anywhere he pleases, so when you do attach the leash, the frustration will be even greater.   

Now that you have introduced him/her to an entirely new world of smells, sights and movement outside the yard, all of which are so new and exciting, they out rank the food you may be using to teach your puppy to stay with you.  What to do?

To make walking on a leash a win win for you both, always begin your leash training in a quiet area in the home or back yard where there are little distractions.  Once she/she understands that the leash means he goes when you go and he stops when you stop, ask your puppy to walk a certain length, say 10 steps while focused on you and reward with a treat, after a few repetitions of this say "ok" release her and let her go sniff.  Repeat, train, reward, sniff or play time.  Her attention span is very short so know this is a progression!  Always begin your leash training indoors and gradually move this training outside while increasing the duration your puppy can focus on you.  Leash manners will take many weeks or even months depending on how often you practice.  If your pup is running off leash Monday through Friday, then please do not expect them to have good manners on leash if he/she is spending most of his time off leash.  Remember your dogs environment is training your dog as much as you are!

Personal Space

KT trying to be friendly to Pablo.

These 3 photos were taken one right after another just a few months after I started working with KT (Fall 2009). KT asked for a photo of my dog Pablo for her new flyer so we opened the back of my truck and I took this photo.  As you notice from Pablo's body language here in the car, he is not very comfortable having KT in his personal space.

Seeing his body language, I moved him to the ground to help him feel less confined.





Keep in mind that this dog had met KT many times before, yet his reaction is clear in these photos.

Notice the look away in this second photo, tongue flick and ears drawn back.

Notice also how much she is leaning into his space, although she is trying to get low for him, he is not very happy about this intrusion of personal space.  KT's body language is normal for humans, but not so much for many dogs.

Here Pablo lifted his paw in a submissive gesture, as he looks and leans farther away from her.  Now his mouth is closed tight and he appears to be saying "just take the --- photo" or in canine words "I hope this ends soon".  It was time for me to give him a break by calling him to me to create space.

I always create space for him so he feels safer when he is in a situation he is uncomfortable with.  I have had hundreds of people toss treats, hand feed and touch and treat him so he has a positive association with people.  So, while many dogs tolerate people petting them, many do not enjoy it as much as the human does.

Car Aggression

Have you ever walked by a car with a barking dog inside?  What did you do?  Stop and stare? Ignore it? You most likely kept walking as you were going somewhere.  You may have thought "someone should correct that yappy dog!"

This pup has no worries:0)  If he barks it is only so you
come give him affection.

The dog however is rewarded when you move away, especially if you stopped and confronted him with a look, then turned and walked away.  How many times can a dog get a reward from barking at people that walk past his car in just a short shopping trip?  Each one is reinforcing his behavior, he has no reason to stop, he made you move away!  This environment is encouraging him to practice an unwanted behavior.

 If your dog does not bark in the car, then he is most likely a happy dog that is not worried about being confined.  However if your dog barks in the car, he may also bark in a crate, the house or a fenced in yard.  This type of dog has issues with confinement which need to be addressed.  Sure you can "correct" the behavior, which only stops it when you are there, but it does nothing to change the emotional state of the dog, so his behavior will most likely become more intense over time as he seeks out the reward more often.

Helping the dog learn to associate confinement as a positive rather than something that is frustrating or scary is the key to helping the dog curb his barking behavior whether you are there or not.  Consider a dog that is aggressive in a crate when you approach, showing his teeth and barking wildly.  Try to approach, toss a treat and retreat away, do this 10 or so times until the dog is happy with your approach.

How about a dog that is growling and barking in a car?  I bet if you have a friend approach, toss a yummy treat in the window and retreat several times, the dog will stop barking and look forward to his approach. With repetition of this conditioning "people approaching my car = something yummy"  The dogs association is changed so the behavior is also changed.  Does this training take time, yes, but is well worth the effort if you want your dog to mature with less stress and frustration.  The fact that the dog stops barking is a bonus reward for you!

Recommended Reading for Training Your Dog

We can all agree that there is no shortage of available dog training advice and material.  From the many different books, websites, television shows and even your well intended friends or family members.  If you are looking for dog friendly training that builds a trusting relationship with your canine friend, then the list below is for you.

I highly recommend any books or videos by the following Professional Behaviorists/Veterinarians:

• Patricia McConnell 
• Karen Pryer
• Jean Donaldson
• Dr. Ian Dodman
• Dr. Nicholas Dodman
• Stanley Coren
• Karen London
• Sophia Yin
• Kathy Sdao
• Sue Sternberg
• Brenda Aloff
• Suzanne Clothier
• Turid Rugaas
• Victoria Stillwell

I recommend you read the description on the book or article so you know you are choosing one that fits your level of understanding.  I have personally met each one of the authors above with the exception of Stanley Coren, although I have 4 of his books!

Why is Ceaser Milan not on my list?  I believe he makes stressed out dogs submit to their fears.  While correction training inhibits the unwanted behavior instantly, it does not change the emotion which is causing the dog to react or behave the way it is.  I believe saying "no" without offering a more acceptable behavior is frustrating and increases stress.  For this reason, I prefer a more scientific approach  using Classical and Operant Conditioning which have proven positive results.

Happy Reading!

Behavior is Always Changing

Dog groups are an ever changing process of behaviors that I find fascinating to observe.  Each dog below is learning from each other what works, what is appropriate and that older dogs have boundaries.

Pepper, Annie, Coco, Sophie, & Pablo

Pepper the adult Kerry Terrier on the left is quite fearful of new dogs and is learning to feel safe with my three dogs and the young puppy.  Annie my 12 year old terrier simply goes about her business with an occasional growl at the adorable pup, Coco next to her.  Coco has learned to leave Annie alone when she has a bone, not to put her paws on Sophie the scottie's back and that a gentle paw at Pablo gets him to play every time. Sophie, my scottie in the back at age 7 avoids conflict and goes about her way.  While she lets the puppy share her bed, that is the extent of her relationship with the puppy.

Studying dog behavior helps us realize that puppies often need to learn boundaries.  Adolescent dogs are like teenagers and often need to have extra confidence in many different situations.  Adult dogs may be playful, or may be quite happy having a quiet routine that is safe and predictable.  Older dogs are great for teaching younger dogs emotional control and good boundaries.

So, be aware that a dogs life changes with age much like a humans does.  Each phase brings challenges from potty training, to having good social skills, learning boundaries and rules.  When a dog reaches adulthood, they become less active, calmer and often less social.

Depending on your age as you read this depends on your association to it.  Being a mother of 3 teenagers I understand adolescents all too well:)

Crate training

What is rewarding to one may be a negative to another;
 these two young boys were happy to be together.

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the dog crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules - like what he can and can't chew on and where he can and can't eliminate. The dog crate is a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he'll think his dog crate is a safe places and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training. The dogs crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps - don't go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
Put the dog crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the dog crates. Bring your dog over to the dog crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the dog crate door is securely fastened opened so it won't hit your dog and frighten him.

To encourage your dog to enter the dog crate, drop some small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the dog crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay - don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the dog crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the dog crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the dog crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Dog Crate
After introducing your dog to the dog crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near or in the dog crate. This will create a pleasant association with the dog crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the dog crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the dog crate.

Once your dog is standing comfortably in the dog crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the dog crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly in the dog crate. Next time, try leaving him in the dog crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the dog crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the dog crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.

Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals in the dog crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the dog crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter such as, "Crate up." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the dog crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the dog crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the dog crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the dog crate. Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the dog crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the dog crates for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the dog crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the dog crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the dog crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the dog crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the dog crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Step 5: Crating Your Dog At Night
Put your dog in the dog crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be best to put the dog crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hall, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn't become associated with abandonment which is punitive to a dog. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his dog crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.

Crate Training A Dog That Potty's in The Crate
If your dog is eliminating in the crate when left alone, think about starting the crate training process over and making the crate a positive place to be. While this process must be very slow, it is feasible to counter condition a dogs association if you go slow.  It will not do any good to punish a dog for eliminating in his crate, yet may make the situation much worse.
All goodies, food, treats, toys and bones are offered to the dog by tossing them into the crate.  Once your dog is readily going into the crate to retrieve good things, you can begin the process of closing the door.  Again, this is only done while you are still in the home.  Each training session should end on calm note with the dog acting calmly in the crate.  Very the training time you have your dog stay in the crate.  Some sessions are longer and some are short.  The key is for the dog to learn that he only comes out when his behavior is calm, not barking and whining.
With a slow and consistent daily training your dog should learn to enjoy spending time in the crate.

Socialization

How can we focus with kids and cars all around!

Socialization is really an ongoing process for you and your new puppy or rescue dog.

Think about all the sights and sounds your puppy would encounter if you walked them on Commercial Street in Portland, Me.  How about walking near a school during recess or on a sidewalk over looking a beach?

When you take your puppy or rescue dog to a new environment, you should simply let him get information about the new place.  Let him look and sniff around for a bit.

These two sweet shelties did not feel comfortable with the kids quickly leaving the High School in all directions.  After a few minutes of watching everyone, they felt more comfortable and were able to focus on their sit and down stays for longer periods of time.

I often hear people say their dog will sit and stay at home, but not in a new environment, this is true of most young dogs!  I promise, if you just allow your dog to engage in his surroundings for a bit, you will have more compliance.   I recommend you let him look or sniff, then train for 5 minutes, then release him with a simple "ok" and a loose leash.  Repeat this type of session, train then "ok" each day until your dog is no longer distracted by his environment.

Each week, gradually increase the training time to build duration in the behaviors you are working on.  Always end a positive note so your dog looks forward to going back to that environment next time!

Leash Frustration

While many dogs enjoy playing with other dogs off leash, they may act frustrated, excited or even aggressive at the site of a dog when on leash.  It's unfortunate that the leash is a safety tool for us, yet can create what appears to be a Jekyll and Hyde reaction in our dogs. For obvious reasons, we must use a leash to protect our dogs and I am happy many of you do use them as they are the law in many places.

Why is this the case with some dogs? 

Dogs weren't born knowing how to be walked on a leash, and we humans weren't born knowing how to use them. Some of you may remember growing up with dogs in the neighborhood running around and greeting with no altercations.  That is because it is normal behavior for dogs to meet, greet, and/or sniff every other dog, person, or tree. It's nice to be that excited about everything, isn't it? 

This is where the term "barrier frustration" is often discussed in dog training. It's when something, in this case the leash, prevents a dog from getting to what he wants, over time this often results (inadvertently) into this frustrating or aggressive reaction. This lack of emotional control "I want it, I want it now! I must meet that other dog!" response inadvertently gets punished.  In many cases, dogs contained by invisible fences where there is a great deal of foot traffic will experience this heightened frustration.

Over time, with each on-leash walking episode, this frustration builds and builds and builds, and gets to the point where the mere sight of another dog triggers this frustrated reaction. Many dogs begin to associates other dogs with frustration. And we're all familiar with feelings of frustration - similar to going to the vending machine every day for months to get your favorite afternoon snack, only to have the machine eat your money and the snack get stuck as it is deposited.  Have you ever seen anyone hit, kick or even shake the machine?  Maybe you have felt this frustration.  Imagine if it happened every week!

Regardless of the "why", the solution is the same:  Teach Your Dog a Rewarding Incompatible Behavior.  Something that's fun, rewarding, and what will soon become the better, more desirable choice when out walking.

Two easy behaviors I find that work well are 1) "Auto Watch or Watch Me"—Your dog makes eye contact with you and he gets a treat.   2) "Find it"— where you toss a treat on the ground right in front of him, thus keeping his head focused somewhere else while having him "hunt", an activity many dogs enjoy. 

I suggest you take his meals on the road, but along with his regular kibble, add something he's more likely to be crazy for. This way your dog is more likely to pay attention to you, and not bark and lunge at the end of the leash.  Begin with these games in your home or yard where you have no distractions.  Then gradually expose your dog to a dog at a great distance and continue to play "find it" or say "watch me" when your dog simply looks at a dog.  Over time, your dog will look at a dog, then automatically look at you, hence the "auto watch" and be rewarded!  

With consistency, your dog will start to look at you as soon as he sees a new dog in anticipation of a fun game!  Be excited and generous with your rewards.

Gracie making friends

Gracie the Pitt mix on the right has been a foster dog at Tender Touch for over two years.  She found herself in a fight with another dog over a bone.  Unfortunately for Gracie, she caused quite a bit of damage to the other dog.

Annie and Gracie learning to trust.

Here you see Gracie has learned to make friends with my Annabelle after about 20 minutes of introductions.  We have fed them treats together and Gracie is non confrontational.

Below you will see Gracie out for a walk with several other dogs.  She showed great communication skills even trying to get a few of the boys in the group to play!  The key to helping Gracie have success in the presence of new dogs is a very slow greeting.  She needs time to trust the other dog before she allows them in her space.

Gracie learning to trust new dogs.

Many dogs will snarl or snap when they first meet a new dog.  This does not mean that they will never be friends, however it does mean that the dog that is snappy does not feel safe.  Helping  this dog feel safe by taking a long walk with the new dog will help.  Should you punish your dog for being aggressive to a new dog?  No, your punishment will only make your dog more stressed.  Building a positive association between the two dogs is the best approach.

Keep in mind that being near a new dog outside is much easier than being with the same dog inside a home.  So, take it slow by bring the dogs together, then apart and repeat until you see both dogs relax.  This may actually take a few days before they feel comfortable in a home together.

Barking at Strangers

Classical Conditioning is the process of making a new association.   Triggers can be something the dog sees, hears, smells, feels or even tastes, they are something that our dogs have associations with which may be scary or negative.

Reactive Beagle doing a sit stay in
the presence of new dogs.  I am using
hotdogs as a high value reward.

When we use classical conditioning we change an association or emotional response our dog has to a trigger.  For example, if our dog is currently afraid of strangers then Strangers = Yummy Food all the time!

The goal is to start having your dog make a positive association when he sees a stranger or a hand coming at him.  Even if he is growling, yes, you are changing his emotional state. Remember strangers or hands predict punishment or fear now, so let’s change it (classical conditioning). 

When he barks at a guest, ask the guest to toss him a treat or several treats.  If your dog approaches the guest, just let him sniff and ask your guest to not pet him as he is in training.  Try having a guest toss a treat behind your dog, I bet your dog comes closer to the guest each time for a new treat.  Then possibly progress to hand feeding from behind the stranger with no eye contact, then sideways, then touch and treat under the chin only.  Touching may take weeks, but eventually your dog will associate a hand coming at him as something good not scary!  

You will need to do this CC training in your home, front yard, side yard, driveway, street and any other place in your neighbor hood that your dog becomes worried.  You will need to continue this training in all new environments so your dog learns to generalize his new associations.

When we desensitize our dogs to their triggers we are lowering their reaction.  For example, if the knock at the door sets your dog in a high arousal mode say level 10, then knock as often as you think about it so her reaction is only a 3 when a real guest comes.  Lowering her arousal will help her control her emotions but you must be CALM for this to work.  When children are running around, or bikes are flying bye, take your dog far enough away that she sees or hears the trigger but can control her emotions, reward for an easy behavior like watch me, here cue or sit and stay.  Gradually move closer to the stimuli and reward for good emotional control. This is a progression and may take several weeks, but will work and is wonderful to see the dog gain confidence to the trigger.

Using the above methods will help your dog be calmer when scary stimuli are near. Practice many repetitions of having her hear or see the trigger and reward for calm behavior!  Remember if your dog is too aroused to think, move farther away!

Let Sleeping Dogs Lie

Why do so many of us feel the need to put our faces near a sleeping dog?

I have witnessed a child receive a warning scratch above and below the eye when startling a strange sleeping dog.  The dog cowered afterwards as if to ward off punishment as the child screamed.  This scream was enough punishment on the dog, I did not need to do anything except help both child and dog feel safer in each other presence after this incident.

How would you react if you were sound asleep and something startled you?  For a shy or fearful dog trying to sleep with a strange person or dog in the house can be very unsettling.  They may drift off, yet still be on guard.  This dogs first emotional response when startled is to protect him/her self with it's best defensive weapon, its teeth.  Unfortunately, many owners and sometimes guests are bitten when they startle a sleeping dog.  If a person is bitten by a dog, there is ALWAYS a reason, we just need to determine what that reason is and work to desensitize or modify it's behavior.

Success lies in determining if the dog was reacting out of fear, guarding a resource or being dominant and biting his owner.  Treating one will not fix another, so getting a good history is the key to preventing this incident from happening again.

Shock collars

Just because we can use this type of punishment, does not mean we should.

This dog stopped eating when
boarded with a male trainer.

I am once again called upon to help with a rescue dog that wants to attack humans.  Not just bite, I mean lunge, snarl and do what ever it needs to do to keep any man from coming near him.  


Ask your self why would a dog be so hostile and angry with a man coming near it?  Because we are now familiar with this dogs history, like many before, we again are faced with the unfortunate fact that a trainer, in this case a male tried to punish a fearful dog.


Please make sure that any "trainer" you employ is Certified with the Association Of Pet Dog Trainers and is able to provide you with a Positive Rewards Based Training Plan.

Why does Sheila not trust hands?

Sure you CAN shock your dog for barking at your neighbor each morning, but do not be surprised when your dog bites that man who he now associates with punishment.


There are reams of studies and stories from trainers, scientists and behaviorists that lead me to believe e-collars and/or remote collars have a great potential for misuse, whether intended or unintended.  So before you use this correction on your dog, I suggest you use it on yourself or even one of your children if you dare.  It is not pleasant, nor is it effective.

Eva learning to make friends

Truman, Eva and Harry learning to be friends.

Truman on the left is a very dog friendly boy as is Harry the black lab mix on the right.  Eva the German Shepherd in the middle is not so trusting of new dogs.

When she first meets or even sees a dog she becomes nervous and reactive as she is very worried.  Using an approach and retreat method or BAT training program we allowed Eva to get lots of information about the new dogs so she could feel safe.

After about 30 minutes of engaging with Truman and Harry, Eva was able to greet and even play with these two handsome boys.  They constantly reassured her that they were friendly with their open mouths, tongue flicks, look aways, yawning, sniffing the ground and many shake offs.

Once Eva was sure they were not going to harm her, she relaxed and began to enjoy their company!  While dog to dog aggression can be scary, with proper management and conditioning, many dogs can learn to trust and enjoy the company of new dogs.

CBC Training Room

Sadie is staying even with distractions!

Come enjoy our large, clean training space at Tender Touch Veterinary Hospital, Scarborough, Maine.  Family members are also welcome to attend.

Class sizes are kept to 4 or 5 dogs to help everyone succeed.

Socialization, Manners, Canine Good Citizen Certification and Private Consults are held in this space. Check out the Class schedule for a list of up coming classes!

Feisty Fido, BAT and Outdoor Adventure classes, all held outside to promote the best learning environment for these dogs.
Not sure what class your dog belongs in? Email or call me so we can set you and your canine friend up for success!

Nose work and tricks classes coming in 2012!  Hope to see you soon!