Barking at Strangers

Classical Conditioning is the process of making a new association.   Triggers can be something the dog sees, hears, smells, feels or even tastes, they are something that our dogs have associations with which may be scary or negative.

Reactive Beagle doing a sit stay in
the presence of new dogs.  I am using
hotdogs as a high value reward.

When we use classical conditioning we change an association or emotional response our dog has to a trigger.  For example, if our dog is currently afraid of strangers then Strangers = Yummy Food all the time!

The goal is to start having your dog make a positive association when he sees a stranger or a hand coming at him.  Even if he is growling, yes, you are changing his emotional state. Remember strangers or hands predict punishment or fear now, so let’s change it (classical conditioning). 

When he barks at a guest, ask the guest to toss him a treat or several treats.  If your dog approaches the guest, just let him sniff and ask your guest to not pet him as he is in training.  Try having a guest toss a treat behind your dog, I bet your dog comes closer to the guest each time for a new treat.  Then possibly progress to hand feeding from behind the stranger with no eye contact, then sideways, then touch and treat under the chin only.  Touching may take weeks, but eventually your dog will associate a hand coming at him as something good not scary!  

You will need to do this CC training in your home, front yard, side yard, driveway, street and any other place in your neighbor hood that your dog becomes worried.  You will need to continue this training in all new environments so your dog learns to generalize his new associations.

When we desensitize our dogs to their triggers we are lowering their reaction.  For example, if the knock at the door sets your dog in a high arousal mode say level 10, then knock as often as you think about it so her reaction is only a 3 when a real guest comes.  Lowering her arousal will help her control her emotions but you must be CALM for this to work.  When children are running around, or bikes are flying bye, take your dog far enough away that she sees or hears the trigger but can control her emotions, reward for an easy behavior like watch me, here cue or sit and stay.  Gradually move closer to the stimuli and reward for good emotional control. This is a progression and may take several weeks, but will work and is wonderful to see the dog gain confidence to the trigger.

Using the above methods will help your dog be calmer when scary stimuli are near. Practice many repetitions of having her hear or see the trigger and reward for calm behavior!  Remember if your dog is too aroused to think, move farther away!